RCMA – The Research Council of Makeup Artists – was founded by renowned makeup artist Vincent JR Kehoe in 1962. RCMA was organized to further the research and development of specialized professional makeup products for the film, television and stage industry. Mr. Kehoe developed and designed a special foundation formula for professional working makeup artists which he called “Color Process Foundation.” It is considered the number one choice of foundation by professionals. Welcome to Artist Spotlight #10 series on my blog.
Professional Makeup is primarily judged on foundation and RCMA has major differences from all other foundations, commercial or theatrical, on the market today anywhere in the world. The basic qualities of RCMA “Color Process” foundation are:
It’s manufactured under very stringent, small batch conditions where the ingredients are weighed out to the gram to maintain both consistency and color standards exactly.
It contains vegetable oils, pure waxes and FDA approved colors. It does NOT contain any perfume, lanolin, petrolatum or mineral oil – the first two have caused allergenic reactions on some skins and the last two are not absorbed by the skin so remain to cause excess oiliness on the surface. Note that other theatrical foundations contain mineral oil or petrolatum as a major ingredient.
Exact color standards are maintained in RCMA foundations from batch to batch and tested on each run against standards. To a makeup artist this is most important for color-matching.
The selection of colors or shades varies throughout the required skin tones for all skin types and undertones. Plus, the same base is employed for RCMA counter shading, shading, cheek colors and color wheel rainbow shades so that they all “powder down” with the same degree of reflectivity. Therefore, the cheek colors are not greasier or of different consistency from the foundation, nor are any of the special bright color wheel shades.
In manufacturing, they’re all made with a high percentage of pigments to waxes and oils so that a very little goes a long way on the skin and produces as “skin color” rather than a heavy coat of makeup. Most commercial liquid foundations have a ratio of about 18 to 23 percent of pigment to the liquid and, in general, theatrical foundations normally run between 30 to 35 percent of pigments to waxes and oils. In this way, RCMA foundations cover better than others and more makeup applications can be done per cake of makeup.
As such, RCMA foundations last better throughout a long shooting day than comparably employed theatrical or commercial foundations, and require less touch-up. When they do, there is no caking on the skin and RCMA “No-Color” powder is all that is required to slightly dull the low shine. In many cases of performers with dry skin, due to the low halation of RCMA foundations, no powdering is required – especially on men’s makeup that is seldom, if ever, powdered.
Slip into something seductive with Lip Lingerie, the weightless liquid lipstick with a plush matte finish. Available in a range of color-kissed nudes—from cinnamon pink and chocolate brown, to warm mahogany red and classic nude beige—each sultry shade will coat the curves of your lips with irresistibly creamy color.
All 24 shades are infused with vitamin E and cover the lips in luscious and lightweight color.
The New Nude Palette by HUDA BEAUTY is versatile and wearable in equal measure. Delivering infinite possibilities, this unexpected palette encourages you to experiment, empower, and express yourself however you please. The online brand Focallure wastes no time in creating alterntives to HUDA’s palettes, and Sunrise is their answer to New Nude.
The all-in-one eyeshadow palette consists of 18 highly-pigmented shades, ranging from flattering mattes to shimmer-drenched hues, and has everything you need to transform your lids. The carefully-curated lineup is studded with easy-to-use combinations—from soft berry to dusty copper, and rosy pink to golden taupe tones. The New Nude Palette boasts a variety of game-changing textures and colors, balancing cool and warm tones to complement the best of both worlds.
The formula of the two palettes is borderline identical. HUDA’s shadows are highly pigmented, very easy to blend, and last all day long (with the right eyeshadow primer). Exactly the same can be said about Focallure’s palette – it even mimics the cream concealer at the bottom left corner and pressed glitter shades.
Glass skin, defined: Evolving from K-Beauty’s dedication to a healthy, glowy, hydrated-looking complexion, “glass skin” refers to skin that looks translucent, smooth and reflective—just like a pane of glass.
High Glass Face Primer – creates a perfect base for an all-day luminous look, the formula is infused with light-reflecting pearls to create the illusion of translucent glass skin. Silky to the touch, it glides on smoothly, creating a fresh and healthy look that can be worn alone or under foundation for glowy, prolonged wear. Available in three flattering shades for a wide range of skin tones.
High Glass Finishing Powder – blurs imperfections and keeps skin glassy all-day long, this versatile formula was designed to be worn over High Glass Face Primer or the foundation of choice. Available in three light-reflecting shades which stretch across light to deep skin tones (light, medium, and deep), each shimmering setting powder sets your makeup and gives the complexion a sleek and polished glass-like glow.
High Glass Illuminating Powder – spotlights the features in a gorgeous, glass-like glow, this pressed-gel highlighting powder is packed with luminous micropearls that catch, reflect, and refract the natural light for a multidimensional, mirror-like sheen (formula similar to Colourpop’s Super Shock Cheek). Specifically designed to go with the Korean glass skincare regimen, this highlighter comes in three inclusive shades (light, medium and deep) to highlight and complement a range of skin tones.
The collection also comes with a primer brush & radiant setting spray.
Have you tried anything from this collection? What are your thoughts? Let me know in the comments below!
My first ever lipstick and makeup product was MAC’s famous Velvet Teddy matte lipstick. This flattering nude shade has been lusted over by beauty lovers for years, and other makeup brands have tried to come out with their own spin on this product.
The closest alternative that was discovered a few years ago to this product, is the Wet’n’Wild’s 902C Bare It All matte lipstick. They’re pretty much the same product, formula and longevity-wise! The shade is described as a “deep-tone beige” on the MAC’s official website. The pricing comparison is $24 vs. $3.
Get MAC’s Velvet Teddy here. Get Wet’n’Wild’s 902C Bare It All here.
Have you tried this Wet’n’Wild dupe or do you prefer the original? Have you found other dupes to this color? Let me know in the comments below!
ColourPop’s 9-pan palettes have taken the makeup world by storm; from monochromatic color stories to complementing colors that make great looks – they’ve got it all. At this point it’s safe to say there are over 20 of this style of palette made by ColourPop, with new releases every week!
Each collection has a cute pun-ny name and usually comes with blushes, highlighters, lip glosses, lipsticks, and even some of their FourthRayBeauty or SOLBody products.
The formula is incredible, and not just for the price. The shadows are pigmented, easily bendable, and last all day long on the eyes with the right eyeshadow primer. More than half of the palettes in this shape come with at least one pressed glitter, which may turn some makeup lovers away from the product.
Beauty lovers about lost their minds when a luxury brand Tatcha released their infamous Silk Canvas primer, with claims to smooth the complexion and appear practically poreless.
At $68USD for 20g of product, this primer gained popularity very quickly. As we know, drugstore brands like to jump on the “popular” train and create a cheaper alternative.
When ELF Cosmetics introduced their Poreless Putty primer, hundreds of reviews and YouTube comparison videos emerged. Needless to say it was a success, as the company added Matte and Luminous versions of this primer to the lineup.
At $8USD for 21g of product, this primer provides the same results as its luxury counterpart, and you only need the smallest amount to give the results you’re looking for.
When Too Faced released their (yet another) version of a nude eyeshadow palette called Natural Nudes in January 2020, so did Maybelline with a drugstore dupe that released in the same month. Since makeup products take at least 6-8 months to create, formulate, and begin production, it’s highly suspicious that such similar palettes released in the same month. Who knows who was snooping on who!
Interesting to note, both brands describe their palette as “made for universal shades and complexions“. Both have 16 shades with a good range of mattes and shimmers.
The Too Faced palette is said to be infused with coconut water, alpine rose & hualuronic acid, which gives it a slight sweet scent and softer blendability. Whereas the Maybelline palette is a tad drier, with key ingridients being Talc, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Zinc Stearate.
Well, I tested them both out for myself and I can say that they’re VERY similar in pigmentation and wearability. Of course, use a good eyeshadow primer to prolong the wear of any eyeshadow. Shimmer shades can be amplified by spraying the brush with the product with a setting spray (MAC’s Fix Plus is the best for this step) before applying onto the eye.
Rimmel London Power Palette in #BossBabe – I like the simple design and the lightweight packaging. The eyeshadows are pigmented, blendable, and crease-proof all day; the lip & cheek gloss doesn’t disrupt the makeup underneath; the highlighter is subtle yet gives a natural glow and complements the eyeshadow tones very well.
Rimmel London Wonder’Ink Eyeliner – the formula of this felt-tip liner is extremely black, dries very quickly preventing smudging and is easy to work with.
Definitely recommend to check out this collection when it hits the shelves!
For more eyeshadow palette shades in this line, visit their website. For the eyeliner, visit their website.
Covergirl Trublend Undercover Concealer – Conceal, shape and brighten with this new full coverage concealer. The large, fluffy doe applicator ensures an easy, even application and the velvety, smooth formula leaves behind a matte finish that lasts all day. With 30 shades that match 99% of skin tones, it’s easy to find your perfect hue.
Rimmel Stay Matte Concealer – This soft-matte concealer has a slightly creamier texture compared to Shape Tape’s drier formula, so naturally, it’s a winner for concealing undereye discoloration without settling into fine lines or looking dry. But this budge-proof and shine-controlling concealer still lives up to its long-wearing promises. Once it sets down, this product stays in place the majority of the day and it won’t smear or fade—even through a sweaty spin class.
L’Oreal Infallible Full Wear Concealer – This drugstore drop is another almost-identical dupe, from its extra-large doe to the formula. Like most of their complexion products in the Infallible line, this matte concealer-contour cream hybrid also lives up to its long-wearing claims. However, because we don’t sleep in our makeup (a beauty no-no), we can’t attest to a 24 hour wear time. It does, however, hold beautifully for a solid 10-12 hours.
ELF 16 Hour Camo Concealer – This full-coverage concealer is probably the closest dupe to the Shape Tape and it’s only $5. It only launched last year and has already achieved an impressive fan following. It’s formulated with a similarly lightweight matte formula and pigment-rich full coverage finish that doesn’t look heavy under the eyes.
Makeup Revolution Conceal & Define Concealer (not shown but used up!) – This beauty guru-approved concealer was one of the first products touting a nearly identical formula to Shape Tape’s, going viral in the beauty sphere after its initial launch. Similar to the Shape Tape, Revolution’s concealer is highly pigmented and matte so you can attain full coverage without having to build up a ton of product and avoid the dreaded cakey effect from multiple layers.
Do you use any of these concealers? What are your other favourites? Let me know in the comments below!