Meet Evanie Frausto, Bella Hadid’s Go-To Hairstylist

Evanie Frausto is the reason why you want bubblegum-blue ringlets piled into towering proportions. Think of those extravagant pyramids of colourful confection – the sort you’d imagine Marie Antoinette dining on – but in wig form, and you have just one of the opulent looks Frausto created for Lil Nas X in his video for his hit single, “Montero (Call Me by Your Name)”. Let them wear wigs.

Welcome to Artist Spotlight #94 series on my blog.

A master of the surreal, Frausto has turned Bella Hadid into Poison Ivy, and made artist and photographer Petra Collins brunette; styled model Aweng Ade-Chuol’s hair into peroxide blonde finger waves and locs, and gave Kendall Jenner such long hair extensions that they trailed on the ground behind her. “I push my work to be a little bit offbeat,” the Mexican-American hairstylist tells Vogue. “I hope that people will feel inspired by it.

Growing up in Orange County, California, Frausto moved to New York where he was taken under the wing of legendary hairstylist Jimmy Paul. Manipulating hair and wigs to sculptural effect, since embarking on a solo career, Frausto has worked for everyone from Fenty to Helmut Lang. Here, the rising star shares some of his proudest moments.

What was your earliest beauty memory?

I grew up with my mum and my grandmother and my mum’s four sisters, who are all glamorous. My mum never left the house without her makeup or her hair done. Just being surrounded by such powerful feminine energy made me see how transformative makeup and hair was.

Did you experiment with your own look?

When I was a teenager, I was influenced by the MySpace scene. It had such a specific look: it was so punk, but also I thought it was pretty — making your hair different bold colours and having piercings and wearing eyeliner. I was constantly changing my hair colour and putting new piercings in my face, and just playing around with self-expression.”

Were you confident in your pursuit of self-expression?

I grew up in a traditional Mexican household and everything that I was exploring was against that tradition. I was the first in my family to be born in the US, so it was confusing to still be in this household and yet be queer, different, and feel ‘other’. But once I found my community and my group of friends, I felt confident as that weirdo kid with the piercings and hair extensions.”

What drew you to hair specifically?

Hair was always the crown, the cherry on the cake – it’s a way of finishing off how I felt, it was a mood, a way of expression. I always gravitated towards it. Working with hair now, I love and appreciate the sculptural element of it, getting my hands in there and manipulating it.

How did you go from experimenting with hair to pursuing it as a career?

I owe it to my mentors. They introduced me to a world I never knew existed, especially Jimmy Paul. I fell into it accidentally; the only reason I went to hair school is that I was a crazy teenager and university in the US is so expensive. One thing led to another, I moved to New York and was pulled into the fashion industry.”

Do you approach hair as its own entity or do you view it as part of the whole look?

I see it both ways, especially working in fashion. Sometimes I get those shoots where I can just create the piece or make the sculpture. I’m fortunate to work with teams that trust me to do my thing, bring it to set and they work around it. But there’s definitely a part of it where I’m helping to bring out a specific look or mood. I’m very much into both.”

How would you describe your creative process?

I’ll talk to the stylist or the photographer, and they’ll give me the initial idea or mood. I work off feelings, so I’ll start doing something that’s in my head but if it starts to go another way, I just follow it. I go with the flow versus trying to mimic something exactly. I look for inspiration in everything and it changes.

There was a moment where I was looking through Instagram, but lately I’ve gotten into books and I’ve been going to thrift stores and vintage shops, hunting for old magazines. I just found this amazing Armani book – it’s so inspiring and a lot of it is stuff I haven’t seen on the internet. I also get inspired when I go back home to Orange County and visit the Mexican-American community. The hair looks are so specific to that community – like chunky highlights or warmer tones.”

What’s been your proudest moment so far?

Honestly, it’s such a hard question because I come from so little so every opportunity I get I’m excited about. I’m proud to be working with people I’ve looked up to and who inspire me like [Vogue Italia editor-at-large] Patti Wilson and Bella Hadid, and that I have such good relationships with.

When working with someone like Bella, how much of her personality plays into how you conceive a look?

Oh, a lot. She really works hard and she studies. Whenever I do something with her, I’ll have my references and then she’ll have her references, and we work it out together. I’m so open to being collaborative. I want the models to feel good so I always love hearing what they think.”

What do you want your work to say about beauty?

I can find beauty in everything. It’s more about a feeling or emotion versus trying to achieve something that’s beautiful. But at the end of the day, I find it beautiful. Beauty is embracing individuality and uniqueness, and not being afraid of things that make a person a little different.”

What are your hopes for the future in terms of your own career, and what are your hopes for the industry at large?

In terms of my own work, I hope to continue to grow and learn. One of my favourite parts of the job is meeting all the other creatives, so I want to continue to grow my relationships with people, and collaborate with people who inspire me. In terms of the industry, it’s been a crazy couple of years. The industry has been pushing for diversity and inclusivity, and I hope that it continues to evolve and grow.”

VOGUE

Easy Hairstylist Hacks That Make Thin Hair Look Thicker

Lacking in the hair volume department? You’ve come to the right place. While body comes naturally to some, for others, volume can be frustratingly elusive. Adding oomph and guts to hair (without weighing it down), is all about creating the illusion of thickness, even if the real thing is hard to come by. Here, Vogue speaks to hairstylist Luke Hersheson – who works with everyone from Dua Lipa to Victoria Beckham – to learn the expert hair hacks he uses to make thin hair look thicker, and fast.

Don’t rely on shampoo and conditioner

You might be under the impression that voluminous hair starts with a volume-boosting shampoo and conditioner, but Hersheson says it’s more about what you don’t do at this stage. “Using the wrong conditioner, or too much of it, can weigh hair down and make it feel flatter, which in turn will make it appear thinner,” he says. “I’d advise against using hair masks and heavy conditioner, to help maintain volume and body.”

It’s all about a great haircut

The key to hair that looks as thick as possible? A great haircut, of course. “A decent haircut is the foundation to any form of styling. You need shape and a graphic cut to be there first, otherwise it’s a bit like a building without foundations – and badly cut hair won’t defy gravity, because its weight will pull it down,” he says. Without it, you can use any product or tool in the world and you’ll still struggle to create volume.

Ask for shorter pieces

Whether a grown-out fringe or some feathering around the face, incorporating some shorter hair at the front of your style can also help make hair look thicker. “It helps elevate the feeling of thickness, versus anything flat, straight and curtain-like,” Hersheson says.

Make use of “hair filler”

It is common to struggle with thinning hair around the temples and sides of the head, especially as you get older. Filler hair pieces – or a patch of extensions at sides – can help to thicken it out a bit,” Hersheson says. Stealthily-placed hair pieces are ultra subtle, and don’t have to look like the obvious hair extensions that have gotten a bad name. According to Hersheson, multiple stars wear them on the red carpet, “and you’d never know”. 

Flip your parting

An easy and quick volumising trick is to change your parting and flip your hair over to the other side. “Think Kim Basinger with her big flick-over,” says Hersheson. “A middle parting will always make hair look flatter – flipping it over is an easy way to add more body.” 

Tease hair at the crown

Remember backcombing? The age-old technique comes in handy when trying to create the illusion of thicker roots, says Hersheson – but avoid doing it the old-school way, with a comb. “Get a mixed bristle brush and hold the hair up, pushing the brush downwards just behind the roots at the crown – it creates a Brigitte Bardot effect, and helps frame the eyes,” he says.

Find the right product for your hair

A new generation of hair mousses can really help add grit, lift and hold into roots, for a more voluminous effect. Hershesons new Zhoosh foam helps to swell and thicken the hair, giving it guts and hold without being sticky. Other products to try include Oribe’s Grandiose Hair Plumping Mousse, and Virtue’s Volumising Mousse.

Blow dry upwards

When you blow dry your hair, ensure you direct the airflow underneath the root and upwards, rather than blowing down on top of the head. “It’s little things like that which make a real difference,” says Hersheson.

Experiment with colour

Well-placed highlights and general colour can help add dimension to hair. “The minute you start adding texture or contrast with colour, you start to see more depth, and that can give the illusion of thickness,” says Hersheson. “Adding very subtle, different tones throughout will do the job well.”

VOGUE