Looking at the makeup on the models walking the autumn/winter runways, you could have been forgiven for thinking that you were seeing a show from the wrong season. Pops of blue, flashes of orange and pink, dustings of yellow, green and lilac… the painterly palettes chosen by makeup artists backstage at shows such as Dries Van Noten, Gucci, Maison Margiela and Missoni were decidedly springlike. And so, too, was their application, which was as important as the spectrum of colour itself. Sheer watercolour washes gave the look a very accessible appeal.
“Transparency automatically makes colour more beautifying on the face,” explains Terry Barber, director of makeup artistry for MAC Cosmetics. “It takes away the fear of looking garish or retro, and it’s those fresh, plump washes of colour that allow you to be more playful.” Be it a halo around the eye, a new or unusual experimentation in lip colour, or a gentle tonal clash on both eyes and lips, using products in this way gives an end result that is much softer – and this is, according to Barber, the easiest and most flattering in-road to exploring technicolour choices. “Veils of colour that bring out the features rather than enclose them are the unsung heroes of makeup,” he says.
So what to make of this more romantic approach? “It’s a good time to break the seasonal rules and not resort to the classic earthiness of autumnal beauty,” says Barber. “Instead celebrate the colours of optimism and freshness. Can we say spring/summer is the new autumn/winter?” It’s a resounding yes.
Self-Taught. Makeup Artist. Photographer. Entrepreneur. Founder. Mother. Black woman.
In a world focused on labels, Danessa Myricks has continuously broken boundaries and built a world of beauty for people from all races, ages and genders.
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #34 series on my blog.
Starting out as a self-taught makeup artist, Danessa learned how to use products in unconventional ways to create stunning looks. Ignoring industry norms, she began to teach other artists about her techniques and product selections, and created a name for herself in the beauty world. After turning heads at some of the largest brands, Danessa led product development for some of the most successful launches in history at brands like KISS and Benefit Cosmetics. But she knew the world of makeup still felt exclusive to many, so she decided to launch her own brand, Danessa Myricks Beauty. Every product developed by Danessa and her team isn’t designed for just one application. All products by Danessa Myricks Beauty are multi-functional and created to work in multiple places and on all faces. Creatively combining artistry with product manipulation, she designs and launches some of the most high-performance products on the market.
Danessa has created looks for celebrities, worked with entertainers in music and film and collaborates with other brands and artists to push the beauty industry forward. She trains makeup artists and enthusiasts worldwide and continues to create some of the most innovative and inclusive beauty products on the market. But the most rewarding part of her work is hearing from people who felt underrepresented, unseen or ignored by beauty brands who finally land at a brand made for all, Danessa Myricks Beauty.
Beauty can feel like an exclusive world. Danessa Myricks Beauty was founded on the principle that race, gender, age and personal style should not limit anyone from experimenting with makeup and discovering their signature look. When we launched we reimagined what makeup can be and developed innovative multifunctional products that work everyplace on every face. Our high-performing products give makeup artists and consumers alike the freedom to play outside the box.
“As a self-taught artist with limited resources, I had to get creative with the products I had access to. Over the years I learned how to create stunning looks while using products in unconventional ways. When I launched my own brand I knew I didn’t want to do what everyone else was doing. I wanted every person to feel like they had found a brand that represented them and gave them freedom to enjoy makeup. I love that no one else makes products like we do and we will continually strive to innovate in the beauty space.”
Danessa Myricks Beauty has taken makeup out of the box.
All are invited to discover an inclusive world of beauty with no boundaries.
This year’s holiday season will look unlike any other, but according to makeup extraordinaire Peter Philips, that’s no reason to skip indulging in a touch of glamour above the neck. “I don’t think people should let go of makeup,” the creative and image director of Christian Dior makeup declares on an afternoon in Paris, as models Amrit, Assa Baradji, and Jade Rabarivelo—their complexions adorned with a light-catching glimmer or a sweep of jewel-toned pigment—shine brightly on the set nearby. Rather, he continues, “It’s more about subtle beauty.”
With light-as-air foundations, shimmering glosses, and quietly chic palettes spread before him, Philips has just dreamed up a handful of holiday makeup looks for our new socially distanced era. Gone are the perfectly drawn pouts, the out-to-there eyeliner etchings, and the faces seemingly dipped in glitter. Here, instead, is beauty for beauty’s sake: There’s rich, glowing skin; luscious lips; and lids layered with mesmerizing shades of shadows—all topped off with a bit of whimsy, of course. (It is still the merrymaking season, after all.) “Makeup is one of the little pleasures in life,” Philips muses with a smile on his face and a twinkle in his eye—and who are we to refuse some joy?
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #32 series on my blog.
Below, six holiday makeup looks for an instant winter pick-me-up.
“I wanted to bring in some shine,” says Philips, who treated runway regular Amrit to a touch of shimmer at eye level and an ultra-shiny pout, courtesy of Dior Addict Lip Maximizer in Shimmer Nude. Take note: “Festive makeup doesn’t always have to be a red, dramatic lip,” he says.
Nevertheless, a crimson-color mouth is a holiday classic for a reason. Pair Rouge Dior Lipstick in color 743, Rouge Zinnia, with metallic shadow and a sweep of complexion-perfecting powder, as shown by newcomer Jade Rabarivelo.
While the season’s Champagne-fueled celebrations are on an indefinite hiatus, you can still channel your inner party girl with a dramatic swipe of sapphire-hued shadow (found in the 5 Couleurs Couture palette in color 279, Denim, and seen here on Assa Baradji) befitting of a spot on the Studio 54 dance floor.
Nudes need not mean boring, especially in the hands of Philips, who complemented a fresh-faced complexion with shades of russet and gold, and Dior’s limited edition shimmer-inflected bullet in color 070, Dazzling Beige. Consider it no-makeup makeup—with a requisite festive twist.
“I call it effortless glam,” Philips says of this two-toned eye shadow look, which can be achieved with a flick of the wrist and Dior’s palette in color 089, Black Night, of bold burgundies and coruscating charcoals. A layer of light-catching lip gloss will seal the deal.
Door knocker earrings meet their match with this baby pink pigment, which was drawn over and around the eye to head-turning effect. Word to the wise: Skip the mascara. “It’s the unexpectedness that makes it new and cool,” Philips says.
Featuring: Amrit, Assa Baradji, and Jade Rabarivelo DP: Alexandre Hertoghe Bookings director: Felicity Webb Bookings manager: Morgan Senesi Hair: Joseph Pujalte Makeup: Peter Philips Set design: Sylvain Cabouat Movement director: Jordan Robson Dancer: Daniil Philippenkov Production: Kitten Graphics: Alice Gavin Music: “Be Honest” by Kiddy Smile
“Everything I do, I’m predicting what the future will look like,” says Raisa Flowers. Throughout her career, the New York City makeup artist, club fixture, and model—she’s walked for shows like Gyspy Sport and Savage x Fenty—has been defying traditional beauty codes, challenging the industry’s status quo, and pushing for more Black representation in the editorial world. Amid the renewed urgency around the Black Lives Matter movement, she’s continuing to buck whitewashed beauty ideals and stretch the ordinary imagination with her ethereal cyborg aesthetic.
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #22 series on my blog.
Flowers’s latest muse, Chinese and Jamaican model Symone Lu, embodies the kind of off-kilter beauty that drives and inspires her aesthetic. “A lot of people wouldn’t understand [her look] because she has a missing tooth, but it is a part of her character,” explains Flowers. “I feel like it brings out her confidence in this way. It’s going against the traditional aspects of what it means to be beautiful, and I love that.” From slicking Lu’s lids and lips in vinyl jet-black paint to drawing on a set of high-arched, pencil-thin brows to play up an icy gaze, Flowers helps her transform into two different real-life characters to chameleonic effect.
Of course, Flowers, with her bleached brows, supernatural skin, and constellation of piercings, continues to be her own canvas, too. On any given day, her presentation can run the gamut from natural to hypernatural to out of this world. “Some days I want to be freaky and wear contacts and do a whole look,” she says of her mesmerizing mismatched gaze paired with a glossy, mocha brown-lined mouth.
“These looks are reflective of myself, and the people who I create with,” says Flowers, who works regularly with singer Kelela and Brooklyn rapper Junglepussy. Looking light years ahead, Flowers has dreamed up three high-impact makeup looks that capture the symbiotic relationship between unapologetic self-expression and out-there oddities. “It’s super alienesque,” says Flowers. “I feel like in the future, that’s how we’re going to look anyways.”
“Glossy…shiny…cool,” is how Flowers describes the graphic black and crimson color story that Lu wears. Beneath a curtain of razor-sharp micro-fringe, Lu’s lids are painted with thick, out-to-there wings and punctuated by scarlet slashes along the brow bones. An onyx lip, blurred away at the sides, finishes the job.
The ultimate mutant hero muse? That would be Storm from X-Men. “She’s a character I relate to with her strength and how powerful she is,” explains Flowers, who helps Lu channel the Marvel character with ultra-thin brows ( “I love the skinny brow look because it reminds me of my mom,” she says), an icy blue cut-crease, white-out contacts, and overlined lips. “I wanted to play off the bouffant with the crazy makeup because I feel in the future, this is how housewives will look,” says Flowers.
“I wanted it to look super mismatchy,” says Flowers of her exaggerated, intentionally clashing cat eyes; one wing saturated in chalky white with a silver-blue contact, and the other a petrol blue with a dark, pupil-enlarging lens. “With most of my work, I’ll do something really intense [on the eyes], and then something more minimal on the lip,” says Flowers, adding harmony with a neutral yet striking nude lacquered lip traced with brown lip liner.