How Isamaya Ffrench Created The Glossy Skin For Vogue’s August Pride Cover

When the August issue of British Vogue is a big celebration of Pride, representation, individuality and activism, how does one approach the make-up? For Isamaya Ffrench – a make-up artist who is always pushing the boundaries of what it means to transform via colour, texture and prosthetics – it was about honouring the unique character and beauty of each LGBTQ+ cover star. “We wanted everyone to look and feel amazing, to celebrate individuality and beauty, so that each person’s make-up complemented their personality,” she tells Vogue.

From Cara Delevingne and Ariana DeBose to Cynthia Erivo, Munroe Bergdorf and Jordan Barrett – just five of the 12 change-makers depicted in the story – there were an array of luminous faces for Ffrench to paint. “We had conversations with each cover star about how they liked to make themselves up and the message they wanted to convey and took it from there,” she says.

Welcome to Artist Spotlight #84 series on my blog.

They landed on fresh-faced make-up looks, which enhanced each individual’s unique features, whether DeBose’s arresting brown eyes (subtly defined with liner) or Aweng Chuol’s vinyl lips, which were captured smiling widely.

Glossy skin, with varying degrees of shine, was a common thread throughout the shoot: “We celebrated glowing skin and took time to perfect everyone’s skin using a mix of skincare and make-up products,” explains Ffrench, who used products from Jones Road, Johnson & Johnson, and the SkinLacq Glow Serum from her newly launched beauty line, Isamaya. Glass skin in a bottle, the serum is infused with hyaluronic acid to hydrate and plump, while emollients create a healthy sheen across skin – it will be available to buy soon.

What was it like working on a shoot celebrating these LGBTQ+ stars? “It was such great energy!” she asserts. “There’s nothing better than celebrating each other.”

VOGUE

Bronze This Way

Model: Charlotte
Products:

  • Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter
  • Catrice Goodbye Pores primer
  • Make Up For Ever ULTRA HD foundation & concealer
  • Laura Mercier translucent loose setting powder
  • Anastasia Beverly Hills contour kit
  • MAC Cosmetics blush in Peaches, highlight in Doublegleam, BlackTrack liquid eyeliner, lip pencil in Boldly Bare, lipstick in Velvet Teddy, & Give Me Sun bronzer
  • Benefit Cosmetics Precisely My Brow pencil and Gimme Brow setting gel
  • Natasha Deanna Bronze midi eyeshadow palette
  • Sigma Beauty brushes.

Model: Charlotte
Photographer: Ken Soon (Chasing Beauty)

(Disclaimer: I do have Charlotte’s consent to post the images on designated websites including Facebook, Instagram, WordPress, and use in my digital portfolio.)

Don’t Forget to Pack These Vacation Makeup Essentials

With vacation season in full swing, there’s no better time to pare down your beauty assortment to curate your must-have travel makeup essentials. Whether you’re adhering to TSA guidelines or just want to pack lightly, most of us will not be traveling with our complete makeup collection.

While planning your trip details and what to wear are certainly exciting tasks, editing your beauty stash can actually be quite stressful. The entire process makes one reflect on what you’ll need on hand once you reach your destination—especially if you’re going somewhere without a drug store for last-minute beauty buys. Regardless, you’ll want at least one complexion product to even skin tone and veil imperfections, along with multitasking pigments to bring warmth and subtle color to the face. And let’s not forget how you’ll store all your makeup to avoid spills or damage.

Trusted Organizers

First things first, determine what travel makeup organizers work best for you. Maybe you already own the best toiletry bag that can fit both your skin-care and makeup necessities, or perhaps you’d prefer to store them separately. Away’s water-resistant case offers spacious compartments, transparent pockets, and even a detachable makeup brush organizer—perfect to secure in your carry-on. Otherwise, consider Longchamp’s zippered pouch, which is compact enough to pop in your purse or personal item for easy access.

Skin Prep

From the Oscars red carpet to the Met Gala, experts wax on about the importance of skin prep for glowing, beautiful skin with or without makeup. So, rely on skin-nourishing products and face primers to prep your base. We’d reach for Tatcha’s The Silk Canvas to weightlessly nourish, blur, protect, and prime—or, the French beauty favorite Embryolisse cream to restore skin moisture and leave a satin finish.

Multitasking Tools

Maybe you’re fine with applying all of your makeup products with your fingers. If not though, don’t forget to pack the beauty tools you rely on at home to perfect your look. For brushes, consider a dual-ended option that pairs two different brush types in one, like this Hourglass option suitable for powder, bronzer, blush, and highlighter. On the other hand, classics like the Beautyblender sponge make blending liquid, cream, and powder products a dream.

Foolproof Complexion

Selecting your vacation complexion products is arguably the hardest part, with so many different types of foundations, concealers, and powders to choose from—many of us requiring multiple shades for a brightened under-eye or combat hyperpigmentation. You can’t go wrong with Ilia’s Super Serum Skin Tint for lightweight, dewy coverage that even boasts sun protection and nourishing ingredients (read: niacinamide, squalane, and hyaluronic acid). For concealer, the Kosas’s creamy formula not only offers dewy medium coverage, but brightens, soothes, and plumps skin over time thanks to a blend of caffeine, peptides, vitamins, and hyaluronic acid. Seriously, who can say no to efficacious clean concealers and foundations?

Set the Look

Even on vacation, it’s important to lock your look in place appropriately. Charlotte Tilbury’s setting powder is excellent to have on hand to reduce shine and blur skin where you need it, earning bonus points for mess-free application (as opposed to loose setting powder options). Then, spritz your face with Supergoop!’s mist that sets and protects against UV rays and pollutants. In fact, a similar formula by the brand saved Vogue commerce writer Alexis Bennett’s makeup during Coachella.

Enticing Eyes

Bring your go-to eye look on your tip by way of the best mascara and eyeliners—both of which work wonders to make your eyes pop and enhance their shape. For smudge-free lengthening and lifting, reach for Merit’s clean mascara. To perfect your signature wing or add some dimension to your look, Ilia’s liquid water-proof formula allows you to precisely etch liner however you see fit, thanks to a fine felt tip.

Tinted Lips

Makeup artists say that the key to nailing a minimalist makeup look is adding an accent of color. One of the easiest ways to do so throughout travel is by keeping a tinted lip product on hand for a statement-making moment. Kosas’s gloss delivers a lip filler effect by visibly plumping the lips—especially if paired with a lip color complementing liner. Not a big gloss fan? Reach for Merit’s satiny lipstick for sheer, buildable color no matter the occasion.

Adaptable Color

We’ve quickly become huge blush enthusiasts, from viral TikTok picks to the best cream formulas. Either way, blendable blushes, and multipurpose color pigments allow you to customize your glow and place colors wherever you want. Versatility is key on any kind of vacation. Tap Merit’s creamy tint across the eyes, lips, and cheeks for a skin-like wash of color. Prefer a liquid formula? Saie’s water-based Dew Blush creates a natural tint after just one dot from its doe foot applicator—blended with one of the previously mentioned makeup tools.

Defined Arches

Brows say a lot about a person, so think ahead to perfecting yours when you’re packing for travel. Draw realistic brow hairs in sparse areas with makeup pro Dani Kimiko Vincent’s ultra-fine pencil, or comb hairs in place with a brow gel like Ilia’s to volumize and thicken with flexible hold.

Glam Optional

Maybe your travels are for a wedding or gala that requires full glam, or maybe you’re not quite sure what your itinerary entails. Nevertheless, a few products specific for camera-ready, longwear glam is essential. Think false lashes to amp up the drama; with this Velour Lashes kit, you have everything you need to apply natural-looking lashes on the go without trimming or measuring. Finally, the last thing you want during full glam is an unnecessary bout of shine. Stop oil in its tracks with Tatcha’s blotting papers without budging your look—housed in packaging small enough to fit in your party handbag or clutch.

VOGUE

Pat McGrath On Why Diversity And Inclusivity Have Been Crucial To Her Brand From Its Launch

“I’m doing so well with swatching right now,” joked legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath during a morning event to celebrate the launch of her eponymous brand’s forthcoming Mothership V: Bronze Seduction palette — a 10-pan offering of matte, shimmer and glitter jewel-toned shadows. “This normally takes a lot of nerve to live-swatch.” McGrath, whose two-year-old makeup company was recently valued at a staggering $1 billion dollars, borrowed a team member’s arm and got busy swiping the pigments on in the now-ubiquitous diagonal swatches we’ve become so accustomed to seeing across every cosmetics brand and beauty influencer’s Instagram feed.

Welcome to Artist Spotlight #83 series on my blog.

Now you believe my swatches online, right? They’re not fake! I know you all think it’s all computer-generated because you know I love a tech-y moment, but this is real,” said McGrath to a room of captivated editors. But truth be told, swatching has been a controversial topic lately, with multiple brands coming under fire for botched attempts at getting it right. 

In January, YSL was called out for an image that featured a dark-skinned model’s arm swatched with six shades of its All Hours Concealer — every single one laughably too light for her. In August, Becca Cosmetics drew criticism when an image promoting its Skin Love foundation range featured what essentially equated to a blackface arm (a light-skinned model had been made up to look darker), and subsequently issued an apology. As breadth of shade range has become more of a priority to makeup brands — shout-out once again to reverberations of the Fenty Effect — the marketing has failed to catch up in many regards, often beginning with egregious oversights in model casting.

Meanwhile, as a Black woman herself, there was never a question that inclusivity and diversity would be an integral pillar of McGrath’s brand from the outset. Not only has she paid careful attention to ensure that the pigmentation and quality of every product under her eponymous umbrella would work on any skin tone, but she also proves that to be true by showing every product on every skin tone as much as possible. On McGrath’s Instagram, in the Pat McGrath Labs campaigns and on the brand’s website, there is no product that’s shown simply on one skin tone. 

At McGrath’s press events, there are always at least three models on hand with a variety of complexions so that editors can get a full understanding of the products’ capabilities, too. And for McGrath, this dedication to inclusivity is personal. “I just remember as almost a child shopping in department stores and seeing all of these beautiful colors and then they never worked on my skin, or they were too bruise-y on pale skin,” she recalled, adding that when it comes to creating the products in her own line, “there’s so much study that goes into every formula, scientifically” to make sure products won’t be exclusionary for anyone based on the shade of their skin. 

It’s about the colors working on every skin tone. It’s so important to know that you’re not left out, that there’s not any skin tone, or any of us, really, who are like, ‘Oh my goodness, only three colors in this palette work for me,’” she said. McGrath has always communicated to her entire team that diversity isn’t optional — and that it starts with model casting. “Working with girls of every skin tone is so important, because if you don’t show the looks on all sorts of skin tones, how do you even know what you can buy, what suits you, what’s right for you?” she said, specifically citing Duckie Thot and Paloma Elsesser as two models of color the brand has worked with from its early days.  

FASHIONISTA

At 53, Jennifer Aniston Is Forever Beauty Goals

No one does it quite like Jennifer Aniston. A beauty icon in every way, she is perfection from her head to her toes, with the sort of glow few women can lay claim to. Whether it’s her year-round golden tan, or her much-requested haircut and colour, she rarely strays from her signature beachy glam. She has worked with the same hairstylist, Chris McMillan, since the ’90s, and while her hairstyle has evolved, she isn’t one to experiment with drastic new looks.

That applies to her make-up, too – it has always been about luminous skin, a defined eye and a nude lip for Jen. A yoga devotee who has made taking collagen supplements a daily ritual, she is known for prioritising both body and mind, and takes a very Los Angeles approach to her beauty routine. As she turns 53, Vogue takes a look at some of her best beauty moments.

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VOGUE

An Exclusive Look at Isamaya Ffrench’s Debut Make-Up Collection

Isamaya Ffrench is sitting at an outside table at London’s The Maine, a stone throw’s from Vogue’s HQ. It’s a particularly sunny Spring day and everyone is full of cheer, which makes what she’s about to unveil that much more subversive. Taking its cues from the visual lexicon of BDSM culture – the lids of two serums and a mascara come skewered with wearable hard metal piercings, while a bound rubbery figure emerges from a 14 pan eyeshadow palette – Isamaya’s first make-up collection (the Industrial collection), for her brand new beauty brand, Isamaya, and its accompanying Steven Klein-lensed campaign, is as much a statement about the beauty industry as it is about beauty. Because Isamaya isn’t your typical beauty brand: it’s not selling you some repackaged notion of beauty in the traditional sense, nor is it relying on tired millennial tropes to appeal to a younger audience. It’s simply about providing the tools for people to express themselves in a way that’s incredibly freeing. “Everyone’s always banging on about make-up to transform yourself,” says Ffrench. “I’ve done the transformation thing, and I get it. But actually, I think make-up is a tool to return to who you are. And I think this collection could speak to people that can be more of their authentic self with this style of make-up, as opposed to like, a pretty girly blusher or something else.

Welcome to Artist Spotlight #82 series on my blog.

But to focus on the visuals and underlying message alone would be to undermine what she’s managed to do in terms of the products. Because this is where the true ingenuity lies. A five-piece drop comprising a mascara, eyeshadow palette, glow serum, lip lacquer and brow laminator, Isamaya has worked tirelessly with her lab to create innovative textures and boundary-pushing formulas; a mascara that doesn’t just give you the effect of fuller lashes, but actually nourishes them to promote growth; an eyeshadow putty that melts with your body temperature to make it more blendable; a glow serum that doesn’t just contain pearlescent particles for a superficial dewiness, but also active ingredients that stimulate collagen production, creating a much deeper, more intense radiance. After years of lending her prowess to brands including Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin, Burberry – where she remains global beauty director – and Byredo, Isamaya is executing her unique vision of beauty on her own terms, and without any commercial shackles. The result is a lesson in unrestrained creativity that feels truly Isamaya. “I look at these products and I think, ‘That’s just so much more me than any other products I’ve ever seen in my life,’” she muses. “Maybe other people will be able to connect to it as well.”

Below, Vogue takes a closer look at the collection.

Industrial Skinlacq Triple Hyaluronic Glow Serum

A pearlescent lacquer for the face, but without any added sparkle, the Industrial Skinlacq Triple Hyaluronic Glow Serum is ideal for creating that glass skin look. Using a triple hyaluronic acid complex, along with cell-energising peptides, it also works to nourish and reinvigorate the skin, which was key for Isamaya. “I didn’t just want a glowy serum that doesn’t do anything else,” she says. “If I’m going to use this on my face every day, as the perfect base for my make-up, I wanted that first point of contact to be moisturising and moisture-locking.” Bottled up beautifully in a glass orb, replete with a pipette and hard metal piercing, it will bring an edge to any bathroom cabinet.

Industrial Rubberlash Latex Lift Mascara

A true example of make-up artistry and invention, the Industrial Rubberlash Latex Lift Mascara doesn’t just make your lashes look fuller and longer, it actually curls them too. “The lab created this mesh-like texture to encapsulate the lash,” Ffrench says. “It has this kind of elastic property that pulls the lashes back so you don’t need to curl your lashes.” Using three separate pigments, two black and one blue, to create an ultra black lash, it gives that coveted false lash impression, while conditioning oils nourish to encourage growth.

Industrial Liplacq Maximising Lip Serum

Described as a veil for the lips, the Industrial Liplacq Maximising Lip Serum uses a blend of coffee and ginger root oil to create a plumping effect, while its deep berry hue and almost inky texture add a sense of depth. This isn’t your average lip offering. “I wanted to create something that makes your lips a couple of shades darker because I think it’s quite sexy, quite goth,” she says. “I don’t want it to look like you’re wearing any product, though, it just deepens your natural tone with a kind of greyish, veiny tint.

Industrial Browlacq Brow Laminator

A multi-use brow lacquer, apply one lick of this hard-wearing, hard-working gel to your brows and it will hold them in place from day to night and right through to the morning after. Perfect for styling or giving that laminating effect, it contains glycerin and humectants to nourish the hairs as well. “For all the drag queens out there, you can use this to stick your brows down and then cover with foundation, and then you have no brows,” she adds. It’s also good for kiss curls.

Industrial Colour Pigments Eyeshadow Palette

Taking inspiration from industrial hues – oil slick greys and chrome silvers – but with the odd flash of acidic colour, the 14 pan palette is a mix of special effect pearls, mattes, and press putties – demi-wet textures that activate at body temperature so they blend more easily. They look just as exquisite together as they do individually. There’s a particularly arresting violet that looks almost holographic on the skin. Isamaya recommends it for cooling down your highlights, while a silver pressed metallic gives a foil-like effect. “It’s all about the textures,” she says. “They look really interesting in different lights, and photograph really beautifully.

VOGUE

Cream Bronzer is the Unsung Multitasking Hero of Your Makeup Bag

Cream bronzer is beloved among pro makeup artists because it blends seamlessly into skin, almost melting to become one with the complexion. But besides its ultra-simple application and the natural, skin-like dewy finish it creates, it’s also incredibly versatile: It can of course be used to, well, bronze, but, when applied strategically, it can also contour and sculpt the face, bring overall warmth to the chest, neck and shoulders or even serve as a neutral-toned eye shadow to build beautiful, subtle depth. What I’m really getting at here is that cream bronzer is truly the unsung hero of the makeup bag, and it’s time the product gets its due. 

With that in mind, here’re some of my (and cult) favourite cream bronzers and contour sticks, with something for every skin tone, finish preference and price point.  From sheer shimmers that illuminate skin, ultra-blendable mattes that create a natural effect and ingeniously designed sticks that can be swept beneath cheekbones or along the hairline with ease and precision. Look through the selection below to see them all. 

SAIE Sun Melt Natural Cream Bronzer

Lys Beauty No Limits Cream Bronzer and Contour Stick

ELF Putty Bronzer

Tarte Sea Breezy Cream Bronzer

Physicians Formula Organic Wear Sculpting Bronzer

Fenty Beauty Cheeks Out Freestyle Cream Bronzer

Tower28 Bronzino Illuminating Cream Bronzer

Rare Beauty Warm Wishes Effortless Bronzer Stick

Danessa Myricks Power Bronzer Cream Bronzer

Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Bronzing Cream

Charlotte Tilbury Beautiful Skin Sun-Kissed Glow Cream Bronzer

FASHIONISTA

Haus Labs By Lady Gaga Is Finally Available to Shop at Sephora

Here’s some great news for Beauty Insiders and Little Monsters everywhere: You can now shop singer, actress, and entrepreneur Lady Gaga’s makeup brand, Haus Labs, at Sephora. The star has teamed up with the retailer to release new and improved versions of her brand’s coveted products.

Welcome to Artist Spotlight #81 series on my blog.

I always wanted to partner with Sephora,” Gaga tells BAZAAR.com. “I used to go to Sephora all the time as a young girl around 13 or 14 years old, I would go in and explore. I didn’t really have the money to buy a lot, so I would buy the Benefit Cosmetics Hoola Bronzer.” So to have her very own line there is a full-circle moment. “I also love Sephora as a company—the people who work there are really nice, and they really believe in what we do, which means a lot to me—they’re our number one fan,” she says.

Although Gaga has seen much brand success since Haus Labs’ initial launch in 2019, she says there’s still more work to be done when it comes to mastering the ins and outs of the beauty industry. “I’d say the first thing I’ve absolutely learned as a beauty founder and creator was that I had a lot to learn,” Gaga says. “When I first began this company, I had a sense of my own artistry and love of artistry, but my knowledge of the beauty industry was much more limited. It took me a couple of years to really hone in on what I wanted this company to be.” 

The line is evolving, without losing the original vision. “From the beginning, I always wanted to create a brand that was about empowering people to their makeup and helping people feel uplifted by makeup, but now, I’m looking to take it a step further,” she says.

The new Haus Labs by Lady Gaga line consists of 90 different Clean at Sephora–certified products across seven key categories, including all-over paints for eyes, lips, cheeks, gel-powder bronzers and highlighters, hydrating lip oils, gel pencil eyeliners, and more. The brand will also continue its expansion with a planned rollout into 500 Sephora stores by the end of this year and additional product launches planned in three new categories.

In a crowded landscape, the star insists that Haus Labs by Lady Gaga is not just another celebrity-driven beauty line, or line with a few fringe skin care benefits. “There are definitely brands that have skin-benefiting ingredients added to their makeup—we are unique in that we’re also clean,” Gaga says. “But what I will say—and I say this kindly—is what I’ve noticed with a lot of products is that people will say, ‘Hey, we’ve added hyaluronic acid to this tinted moisturizer,’ but they won’t have put enough of the ingredient in for it to be skin optimizing or functional. So it’s sort of like putting a few sprinkles on the top of a cupcake but you can’t really taste them.” 

The revamped Haus Labs by Lady Gaga products, she says, focus on skin care—and then some. “We have now put super-charged ingredients into our makeup, so it’s infused with skin care. And we use futuristic clean formulas that go beyond industry standards, with a huge color assortment. These are artistry products without compromising performance and value.

As someone who suffers from fibromyalgia, a condition that is often accompanied by chronic pain, it was important to the star to feature medicinal ingredients, like fermented arnica, in the newest iteration of Haus Labs by Lady Gaga. “Both our Power Sculpt Velvet Bronzer and Bio-Radiant Gel-Powder Highlighter are infused with our proprietary complex of fermented arnica, which is 860 percent more potent than conventional arnica,” the star explains. “We did this because I have fibromyalgia and chronic pain, so I’ve always used arnica as a way to combat inflammation in my body. I thought, I wonder if this could also calm down the skin—turns out that it does. And I also have a lot of pattern redness in my face, so we put the ingredient in our bronzer and highlighter.”

The added ingredients are intentional but don’t take away from the payoff of the product itself. “While I’m wearing this makeup, my face is getting treated for inflammation all day long with very high efficacy,” she says. “So that’s the difference: It’s not just about the formula, but about the intensity and efficacy of the formula. How truly good it is for the skin as opposed to being a gimmick or just an idea.

Aside from updating ingredients and formulas across the entire Haus Labs collection, Gaga says her intention behind the new launch is to ultimately create makeup that matters while making a larger difference. “Even our packaging is sustainable,” the star says. “When you see it in stores at Sephora, you’re going to be able to see exactly the color that you’re buying—you’re not going to buy something, get home, and realize you bought the wrong shade.”

As far as her favorite Haus Labs by Lady Gaga product to wear for major events? “I would definitely say that on red carpets, I always wear our The Edge Precision Brow Pencil. It’s my favorite brow pencil, because you can get that perfect edge across the bottom, which gives you that sharp look with your brows while making those featherlike strokes,” she says. And she reveals another trick that helps give her that bright-eyed look: “Something else I always do on the red carpet is wear white liner in my waterline—it’s a trick to make the eyes look bigger, and one of the inspirations behind why we wanted this [version of Haus Labs] to be so clean. Our Optic Intensity Eco Gel Eyeliner Pencil has argan oil and vitamin E as well, so it’s safe for my waterline.” 

Haus Labs by Lady Gaga is available now online at hauslabs.com and sephora.com.

HARPERS BAZAAR

Sunflower

Model: Keanna
Products:

  • Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter
  • Catrice Goodbye Pores primer
  • Make Up For Ever ULTRA HD foundation & concealer
  • Laura Mercier translucent loose setting powder
  • Anastasia Beverly Hills contour kit
  • MAC Cosmetics blush in Peaches, highlight in Doublegleam, BlackTrack liquid eyeliner, lip pencil in Brick, lipstick in Chili, & Give Me Sun bronzer
  • Benefit Cosmetics Precisely My Brow pencil and Gimme Brow setting gel
  • ColourPop Freckle pen, Orange You Glad & Uh Huh Honey eyeshadow palettes
  • Sigma Beauty brushes.

(Disclaimer: I do have Keanna’s consent to post the images on designated websites including Facebook, Instagram, WordPress, and use in my digital portfolio.)

Sephora Collection Smooth + Blur Primer Has a Supernatural Way of Blurring Skin

TL;DR:

  • What It Is: A hydrating primer
  • What It Does: It has a soft-focus effect and keeps makeup fresh throughout the day
  • Who It’s For: Whether you’re looking for a product that just evens out your skin a little or for a primer that make your base wear longer, this does the trick.

A hydrating primer that goes above and beyond, Sephora Collection Smooth + Blur Primer is a silky, vitamin E-infused formula that has a supernatural way of blurring skin, like a soft-focus filter on Instagram. It immediately makes complexions look so smooth and even — hiding redness with a sheer, subtle, tan tint — you may just hesitate to add foundation on top. After letting your sunscreen (the last step in any skincare routine) absorb, smooth on the hydrating vitamin E-infused primer. Immediately, your skin will look smoother…so good, in fact, you’ll hesitate to even add foundation. Target a bit of extra coverage over any redness and your makeup will stay perfectly fresh throughout the entire day.

Buy at Sephora $16

ALLURE