runway makeup

The Story Behind Off-White’s “Impossible Blue” Eyeliner

“Celebration” was the name of Off-White’s spring show, presented inside the Ateliers Berthier last night in Paris. X-Ray-print blazers, belly cut-outs, and arrowed cowboy boots filled the industrial space built by the architect Charles Garnier and used for storing Paris Opera sets. It was a fitting venue to honour Virgil Abloh, the late multi-hyphenate designer, who began workshopping this season’s spring 2023 collection before his passing last year. 

As he examined and experimented with each piece that walked the “Impossible Blue” runway last night, Ibrahim Kamara, Off-White’s new image and art director, realised it’s a celebratory one. After all, Abloh was often drawn to the warm indigo shade, which carpeted the catwalk and punctuated model gazes, courtesy of blue pigments from the Paperwork beauty collection, for the show.

“I wanted to be quite playful, but glam rock,” said make-up artist Hiromi Ueda backstage as she held the Maze shade of Paperwork’s multi-use crayons in her hand. “It’s beautiful, sexy, and confident.” Ueda relied on just two of the beauty line’s colour sticks, Maze and Jet (an inky black), to complete every look. For sooty gazes, Jet was faded at the edges with a blending brush for a smoked-out effect — and, of course, finished with a pop of Maze on the lower waterline. The subtler version seen across models of all genders, and especially those wearing white (called the “pure” look), consisted of Maze traced along the lower waterline and wiped away for a “worn-in eyeliner” effect that was nearly imperceptible. 

Visible from across the cavernous rooms, though, were the “bold blue” graphic wings that hairstylist Jawara called a “harder blue look.” He and Ueda discussed the glam rock direction ahead of the show, where words like “tough” and “playful” described the mood. Jawara ultimately gave models wispy mullet and pixie wigs alongside cornrows, slick backs, and one cerulean buzz cut. “I think they complement the hair really well,” said Jawara of the final make-up looks. “We came up with it together.” It reflects Off-White’s larger goal to uplift its coterie of artists and speaks to the collaborative spirit that continues to define Abloh’s legacy.  

VOGUE

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The 5 Biggest Makeup Trends to Look Out for in 2023

2023 has just begun, bringing with it a fresh start for all things—including our makeup. With the proverbial palette cleaned, recharged takes on existing trends and entirely original approaches have room to shade, delineate, and contour the coming months, filling it with all of the color and sparkle that a new year demands. Blush will continue to provide buildable warmth, eyeliner is going the way of the statement-making seductress, and refractive details will allow you to channel the vibes of mermaids and robots alike. A common thread exists in a continued want of play—a means of combatting darker days with rampant (and striking) self-expression. Here, five beauty trends that will be taking over in 2023.

Statement Lips  

Lips are set to be bolder than ever in the new year—so bold, in fact, that they may be ready to work alone. “This is a model-off-duty/off-the-runway type look that can look amazing from day to night,” says makeup artist Tobi Henney, who recommends centering the lip by keeping skin clean and lightly grooming brows and lashes. She also notes that a resurgence of lipliners that are deeper than lipstick hues are on the rise, which work better to keep the focus on your natural pout. “It can help achieve the perfect lip shade and enhance lips by giving the illusion of more fullness.”

Futuristic Metallics 

Alloy-inspired shimmer can veer whimsical or robotic, depending on how you play it. Mermaidcore ruled the spring 2023 runways, and the collective conversation around AI—and an influx of new technology—is bound to elicit futuristic beauty. “Blame it on our obsession with AI, fairies, and everything extraterrestrial, but whatever the reason I’m so here for it,” makeup artist Jenna Kristina. She recommends starting with Pat McGrath’s on-point palettes, including those from the legend’s Star Wars makeup collaboration. “It’s our meta selves in the real world.”

More Blush

Blush has been experiencing a renaissance in recent years, with blendable cream options and more-is-more application methods making cheeks (and eyes and the bridges of noses) romantically rosy. “There was a moment when it was only about bronzer and highlighter, but blush is back and bolder than ever,” Kristina says. “Adding blush is like adding life back to the skin.” The trend already has legs, having served as the main factor in several of 2022’s most memorable TikTok beauty looks—think sunburn blush, cold girl, and crying girl makeup. 

Face Embellishments

The Euphoria effect shows no signs of stopping. “We’ll continue to see more experimental looks incorporating gems, pearls, glitter, and other accents that’ll cover not only the eyes but other parts of the face and body,” makeup artist Jaleesa Jaikaran says. Invest in an arsenal of flat-backed rhinestones and the like in all shapes, sizes, and shades to be secured with clear lash glue—if you can find self-adhesive options, even better.

Longer and Sharper Cat-Eye Wings

Kittenish flicks and TikTok’s alluring and elongating siren eyes will gain in popularity (and ease) with the help of an upgraded guard of liners. “With so many brands developing high-technology eyeliners that do not budge and are smudge-proof, the graphic feline liner look will be one to wear for a fun night out,” says Henney, who recommends focusing on pulling the eye shape upward and outward. Dark femininity is sure to be a major 2023 trend. 

VOGUE

The 6 Best Beauty Trends From Spring 2023 Fashion Month

METALLIC EYES

“Beautiful ravers” is how Hannah Murray, lead makeup artist for the Chloé show, described the silver strobes of paint sweeping the models’ eyelids in Paris. The brand was one of many that leaned into metallic eye details of all colors for Spring 2023:  Batsheva went for blotchy blues, while Dries Van Noten played up chrome gold circling the eye.

FAUX FACIAL PIERCINGS

Suddenly, having more than one ear piercing is nothing to feel edgy about. The Spring 2023 runways were surprisingly in agreement about face piercings and modifications. At Rebecca Minkoff, models wore more common dermal, septum and bridge piercings, while drag-queen and special-effects makeup artist Alexis Stone left no facial skin untouched at Balenciaga, with spikes protruding from cheeks, studs lining eyebrows and even bulging forehead prosthetics.

’70S VOLUME AND CUTS

Hairstyles from the ’70s have once again infiltrated the runway. This season, however, the looks went beyond the Gen-Z revived shag and mullet trends of the last two years: We saw ultimate volume — from rounded natural hair at Susan Alexandra and harsh blunt bobs and bangs at Paul Costello, to sleek Cher-inspired length at Versace and feathered, brow-skimming bangs at Prabal Gurung.

WILD WINGS

There are few eye-makeup staples as storied as the winged cat-eye liner. For Spring 2023, that classic style was turned up to full volume, with thicker wings outstretching beyond the end tip of the brows, and some even reaching towards the hairline. Whether covered in glitter like at Halpern or smudged out for a smoke effect at Off-White, the fullness of the wing was the key.

BARELY-THERE BROWS

If there’s one daring beauty look that pops in and out of vogue with regularity — on the runways and off — it’s bleached eyebrows. And while the full-on bleach look was surely popular across the Spring 2023 shows, we also saw the rise of a less drastic lightened brow, just a shade or two lighter than the model’s natural hair color. Think: less shock value, more your-face-but-better, allowing the brows to blend in with glossy, fresh skin.

3-D MANICURES

What once seemed reserved for only the most tuned-in nail art enthusiasts is now proving to have a place on the hands of just about anyone who wants them. From molding gel bubbles to dangling chains, this season’s runways confirmed that 3-D nail adornments will only become more widespread — whether you’d like to ease in with entry-level designs or opt for the most extravagant.

FASHIONISTA

You Better Believe That Bleached Brows Are Back (Again)

You’ll find many different iterations of the bleached eyebrow trend on the catwalks (one example being Victoria Beckham’s spring/summer 2023 show), but it is – understandably – a less common occurrence to see them on real women.

Not a look to be undertaken lightly, there’s a reason why beauty experts extol the face-framing benefits of a full, defined eyebrow – it draws attention to our eyes and bone structure, so in most cases bleaching them seems like a bad decision. 

But real women do wear them – and can pull them off, as Nicola Peltz-Beckham and Maisie Williams proved over the weekend. The Gen-Z stars both hit the Givenchy spring/summer 2023 show with brows that were so light, they were barely perceptible.

It’s not Williams’s first rodeo: the actor has experimented with the look before, having initially bleached her thick eyebrows for her role as punk icon Jordan in Danny Boyle’s Pistol. They became a focal point of her look for a while, and she walked a number of red carpets with platinum brows. Her trick to pulling them off? Distinctive eye make-up and a bold lipstick, both of which help to ensure she looks interesting, rather than washed out.

Known for her California-girl aesthetic, Peltz-Beckham’s newly bleached brows are a first for her. Having recently switched her buttery blonde locks for a more grunge brunette shade and a choppy fringe, the actor posed at the Givenchy step-and-repeat looking statuesque and striking with her new look. With smudgy winged eyeliner and a flushed cheek, she looked ethereal and interesting, and the bleached brow complemented her suited-and-booted get-up effortlessly.

Would you try it? Past adoptees of the bleached look include everyone from Kim Kardashian to Lady Gaga, and while it will always be a divisive beauty trend, it is a quick and easy way to completely transform your look. And, if you don’t like the results post-bleach, all you have to do is dye them back…

VOGUE

10 Winter Makeup Trends You Need To Copy ASAP

Fresh Skin

When in doubt, keep it minimal. “Some of the trends I’m seeing for makeup both on the red carpet and on the runways are fresh makeup looks,” says celebrity makeup artist Vincent Oquendo. You can accomplish this either through investing in impeccable skin makeup, or keeping it minimal with easy skincare.

Sunburnt Blush

“The sunburn or [TikTok’s viral] W blush hack for one is something makeup artists have done for years to mimic a healthy glow, and is becoming popular with consumers now as well,” says celebrity makeup artist Kale Teter. Just swipe on some cream or powder blush–then add some more. And some more.

Graphic Liner

Making a statement has never been easier. By just adding a few stark lines with either a pencil or liquid eyeliner, you can become the coolest kid on the block in no time. Bonus points if you use a fun color like blue or pink to really make the look pop.

Grunge

The song “Teenage Dirtbag” is still all over my TikTok, and a return to our Tumblr grunge era is long overdue. Channel season three Jenny Humphrey by layering on black eyeliner, then smoking it out with powder eyeshadows.

Loud Lipstick

After years of forgoing lipstick altogether, it’s finally time to paint on your brightest lip. If it’s a long-wear formula, even better, but it’s back to traditional lipsticks this winter. Because nothing cuts through the cold quite like a bold lip.

Fluffy Brows

Whether you were born with naturally fluffy lashes or you could use a little help in that department, this is one of the easiest looks to achieve this winter. Just grab a strong-hold gel, swipe up, and you’re done.

Playful Eyes

“I think we’re all kind of yearning for something a little playful and joyful,” says Teter. “It’s about having more fun now.” To achieve that joyous makeup look we’re all craving, lean into color. A single-toned, bright eyeshadow is an easy way to make a statement.

Euphoria Makeup

We’re still not over the Euphoria season finale–or the beauty looks. A statement color, glowing skin, and graphic eyeliner are not going out of style anytime soon. And don’t forget to add on your face gems–they’re a must-have (trust us).

Bleached Brows

Bleached eyebrows are the new breakup bangs, you heard it here first. And you don’t need to be an artist with a collection of vintage jewelry to pull it off. As long as you wear them with confidence, no one will bat an eye. The best part? The worse it looks, the better it looks.

Retro Liner

Seeking simpler times? The ’60s are an endless source of style inspiration, and this winter, let’s commit to the cat-eye like never before. Instead of a subtle swipe, go bold with the liner. A Mia Farrow-inspired pixie cut would pair perfectly.

ELLE

The Armani Runway Offers a Masterclass in the Perfect Smoky Eye

With a focus on the eyes this season, the beauty at the Giorgio Armani fall 2022 show in Milan on Sunday night complemented a collection full of plush velvets, reflective metallics and smoky hues. Statement eyes were paired with a sophisticated nude lip on the runway. 

As per the brand’s Instagram page, Mr. Armani can be found “backstage before a fashion show overseeing every detail from the beauty to the runway,” so you can see his meticulous hand in every final touch. The show was staged in a small theatre, reminiscent of an intricate jewelry box, and models walked the runway in silence. The designer’s decision not to use any music in the show was a sign of respect in light of the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine.

To emulate the Armani look, try a smoky line of eyeshadow along the crease of the eye, applied using a small but dense smudge brush. That way, the eyeshadow pigment remains while giving you the freedom to draw your cut crease with the space to smudge out (or conceal) any mistakes. To soften the eyes and brighten the look, a matte white eyeshadow was used in the inner corners, giving an ethereal halo effect and adding even more dimension to the look.

A few individual eyelash extensions were applied on the outer corners of the eyes on a number of models to achieve the right amount of flutter and lift the eyes with minimal effort. Brows were filled and extended, but the focus was on the structured eyeshadow. Using Giorgio Armani’s Lip Power, each model wore their perfect nude. The pigmented yet satin finish of the lipstick left lips looking healthy and hydrated.

Meanwhile, models’ hair was styled in cornrows or combed back and saturated with product to create a cool high-shine wet look that perfectly complemented the dazzling metallics in the collection. 

VOGUE

How To Paint Eye Make-up Like Monet, According To The Ulla Johnson Runway

As a blanket of snow fell upon Bryant Park just outside, the Ulla Johnson runway supplied showgoers with a soothing respite at the New York Public Library. Inside the grand marble lobby, the winding runway was punctuated by towers of mimosas and dotted with abstract wood sculptures by Alma Allen, while the soulful sounds of singer PawPaw Rod and smokey aroma of Astier de Villatte incense wafted through the air.

Above this season’s slouchy mohair pullovers, psychedelic-print taffeta dresses, and lush cocoon coats, there was a feast of beauty details supplying Johnson’s signature bohemian romance with an unexpected edge. Hairstylist Bob Recine crafted a lineup of chic styles including sleek, fabric-wrapped low ponytails; choppy, asymmetrical bobs; and waist-grazing braids embellished with polished stone charms. Playing off the collection’s neutrals, nails were painted in Tenoverten’s Canal, a creamy nude in total harmony with Johnson’s warm, earthy world.

The most dramatic statement came by way of the eyes, with make-up artist Romy Soleimani administering sharp, graphic cat-eyes flicks characterised by a tiny dash of negative space along the lower lash line. “It’s a bit tough,” she explained while etching on the shape using Bobbi Brown’s carbon black Ink Liner Pen. “Everything Ulla does is soft and romantic, so I like to add a little bit of hardness.” But for some models, that was just the beginning.

“Monet-like, Impressionistic,” is how Soleimani described the soft-focus, two-tone “watercolour-y” treatments she proceeded to bestow on a few select gazes. She began by haphazardly tapping on a matte, pale greige pigment with a blending brush, before layering on finger-smudged swipes of metallic gold along the inner corners and brow bone. “I wanted them to feel not too colourful, not too earthy – more minimal and futuristic,” she said. The face was finished with fresh, healthy skin enhanced with a “high flush” on the upper cheekbones, blended with Luxe Matte Lipstick in pink-coral Bitten Peach and Crushed Lip Colour in cool pink Buff, each tying back to tones in the collection, and a dab of Extra Repair Eye Cream Intense on temples for a “natural sheen.”

While the prospect of painting on Impressionist-inspired eye make-up sounds intimidating, making like Monet is closer to child’s play than you think, stresses Soleimani. “It’s spontaneous,” she says, “like finger painting.” And just like that…this editor already has plans to embellish her next cat-eye with a dose of off-kilter colour and a gilded brow bone highlight.

VOGUE

Pat McGrath Wants Us To Really Lean Into Blush For Spring 2022

Liquid liner and bold lip color may be tried and true staples of “going out” makeup, but allow us to offer up an inspired alternative, courtesy of makeup artist Pat McGrath: blush — and lots of it. 

For Anna Sui’s Spring 2022 runway show, the backstage legend dreamed up a blush-on-blush look, sweeping pink pigment (Pat McGrath Labs Divine Blush in Electric Bloom and Lovestruck, to be specific) over models’ cheeks as well as their eyelids, blending it out into a hazy but vibrant halo. To liven things up (and to add her signature luminosity), McGrath dabbed metallic silver eye shadow (the “Sterling” shade from the Pat McGrath Labs Mothership IV: Decadence Palette) on the lids, keeping it concentrated at the very centers to exaggerate and highlight the eyes. She also placed a strategic “stamp” of silver at the inner corners, over the tear ducts, for more impact.

“[It’s about] transporting us to somewhere, not necessarily specific, but going to a place where we all want to be,” said McGrath in an interview backstage. “It’s really like an adorned face, but it’s still so soft and very pretty.” 

While the ample use of pink, as well as the technique of pulling it up toward the temples, is certainly reminiscent of the “blush draping” trend we saw way back on the Spring 2017 runways, here it feels reimagined in a way that’s fresh, rather than ’80s or retro. Seeing it in person backstage — the way the silver pigment, cheekbone highlight and accompanying glimmery lip gloss caught the lights and dazzled in front of the cameras — this look is positively begging to be worn out for a night on the town. I couldn’t help but think to myself: Pat McGrath just created the Going Out Top of makeup. It’s trendy, it’s fun, it looks good on everyone and it’s one thing you can put on to let the world know you’re ready for a party.

Pink and red eye shadows are notoriously tricky to pull off, but leave it to Mother McGrath to come up with a technique that makes it wearable for any skin tone: “I think if the pink was [on the eyes] alone, it would look a lot more drawn, a little more pale. It’s adding that kiss of color [to the cheeks as well] that gives it that beautiful effect,” she explained, adding, “I really do think wearing the silver and the gilted colors on the eyes makes it more fun.” 

When McGrath debuted her powder blush last spring, it was with this exact holistic approach in mind. “That’s how we launched blush, using it around the eyes and making it a whole statement of blush — blush isn’t just that thing that you add for a glow; it [can also be] an eye statement,” she said. 

GET THE LOOK:

PAT McGRATH LABS
Skin Fetish: Divine Powder Blush

PATRICK TA
Monochrome Moment – Velvet Blush

Maybelline
Fit Me Blush

LYS Beauty
Higher Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush

MAKEUP BY MARIO
Soft Pop Powder Blush

mented cosmetics
Blush

FASHIONISTA

5 Tips On How To Wear Neon Eye Make-Up Now

Neon beauty is having a moment. Recently, singer Selena Gomez took to Instagram to show off her neon coral make-up, which faded out from the inner corners of her eyes and was masterfully executed by Los Angeles-based make-up artist Jenna Nicole. To complete the look, the pop star wore a set of lime-green nails and a bronze tan.

Cut to Off-White’s AW21 show, and, once again, neon took centre stage. Using specially crafted crayons in neoprene orange and Yves Klein blue, which picked out the main colours of creative director Virgil Abloh’s latest collection, make-up artist Morgane Martini offered a masterclass in how to work a graphic-neon eye in an off-beat, modern way.

“The name of the show was Laboratory of Fun, which instantly led me to colourful make-up ideas, and Virgil wanted a strong eye,” Martini tells Vogue. “Neon is like bringing a flashlight to your face and, in this case, to your eyes. It was important that these looks reflected a kind of self-expression that could suit anyone, no matter the gender or age.”

Here, Martini shares her top tips for creating the perfect neon eye with a cool, modern twist.

1. Less is more

“My number one tip would be to use neon sparingly. There’s no need to go crazy here. I didn’t want anything that would take over from the actual looks. I just wanted it to be a little detail, a little splash of colour — a bit on the inner corner of the eye or a small eyeliner will give a strong impact and I love that.”

2. Go graphic

“The idea for those graphic elements came from the collection. They brought a touch of modern and cool. lt didn’t feel like make-up, it was more an accessory for the eye.

“To create the look, I used tape and went over it with a pencil. It’s not that difficult at all — you just have to place the tape correctly. It has an instant modern and creative feel, and the ability to be both bold and subtle. It’s nice to change things up and explore other ways to enhance features.”

3. Avoid the lash line

“Make sure it doesn’t get into the lash line and lashes. You can use a thin cotton swab dipped in micellar water to clean any mistakes after application.”

4. Keep colours to a minimum

“Neon is such a bold statement in itself that you have to be shy about applying it. You don’t want to look like you’re going to [California festival] Coachella. I used colours that I saw in the collection that felt complementary, without taking over everything.

“For the graphic line, we kept it monochromatic. Other looks have a mix of blue and orange, but, for example, the look I did on Joan Smalls had the blue, but with a warmer orange, not as bright. I kept it minimal — sometimes, things are more powerful when they’re simple. Whereas the more you use, it can become gimmicky and you lose impact.”

5. Leave everything else natural

“We wanted the make-up to be genderless, so that’s why I wanted to keep it clean, simple and paired with fresh skin. I didn’t even put blush, contour or any mascara on the models — it was really as pared back as we could get it.”

VOGUE

Get Balenciaga Couture’s Stunning Eyeliner Look In Two Simple Steps

Much has been written about the return of FOMO as restaurants—and borders—reopen, and the luckiest among us begin revisiting our once thriving (and debatably overscheduled) social and professional commitments in a world tiptoeing back to some form of pre-pandemic normalcy. This week’s haute couture shows, many of which are being held in person, have presented the biggest post-lockdown FOMO opportunity for the fashion faithful, and there was perhaps no bigger moment to miss out on than Demna Gvasalia’s couture debut for Balenciaga.

Welcome to Artist Spotlight #57 series on my blog.

Those lucky enough to be present have reported audible gasps as Gvasalia evolved his street sensibility with what Vogue’s Sarah Mower called “confidence, grandeur, and ease” and the brand returned to the couture calendar for the first time since Cristóbal Balenciaga shuttered his house 53 years ago. In a particularly impressive feat, the collection—with its mix of structured tailoring, voluminous gowns, and extravagant embroideries—nodded to the past while still respecting the modern aesthetic that has earned Gvasalia legions of millennial fans. The hair and makeup did a similar dance, riffing on classic techniques with idiosyncratic treatments.

“It felt like a gesture that was just always there,” makeup artist Inge Grognard says of the purposeful, gender-neutral slashes of black eyeliner that she applied to a selection of models, both men and women. The reference to more recognizable couture makeup—the thin, black cat-eye flicks that were once a fixture of the Paris salons of the ’50s and ’60s—wasn’t lost on Grognard, who made handy work of avoiding anything too retro. “This had to be a modern version,” she says of the graphic statement, a layering effort of Kiko Milano’s gel eyeliner to anchor a coating of Maybelline’s liquid eyeliner pen for “a shiny thing” on top. Grognard estimates she tried 30 different eyeliners before arriving at this specific combination, which appeared against almost starkly bare skin—no blush, no mascara, no painted brows.

Hairstylist Holli Smith’s sleek, individualized hair looks furthered Gvasalia’s rebuke of more standardized forms of beauty. “Wet was the key word for a lot of the looks,” says Smith, who used the utilitarian French pomade Pento to get a noticeable sheen without the stiffness of gel. Smith’s razor-sharp parts with angled ends, occasional bursts of texture, and even a few refined chignons offered a similar update to more familiar couture shapes while providing the perfect base for a series of instantly iconic Philip Treacy hats.

Both Grognard and Smith confirmed the collective suspicion gripping those of us who watched as these runway photos came in online this morning: that the show was really something to behold in person. “There was a lot of emotion,” Grognard reveals of the mood today at 10 Avenue Georges V, which had been retrofitted to resemble Cristobal’s original atelier and where call time was a bright and early 5:00 a.m. Adds Smith, “It’s very special to be a part of.”

VOGUE article