Caroline Hirons Breaks Into Beauty Tech With Skin Care App Launch

Caroline Hirons, the British aesthetician and influencer, has launched her new skin care app on 13th of July.

The free Skin Rocks app will provide curated information and advice on the type of skin users have, and will then match products best suited for the individual.

A soft launch was held on 28 June, when it was offered to the 120,000 members of Hiron’s Skincare Freaks Facebook group for testing.

The beta launch made it to number four on the top free apps in the Apple chart within 12 hours, according to Hirons.

Welcome to Artist Spotlight #86 series on my blog.

We have been blown away by the response and cannot wait to share the fully loaded Skin Rocks App with our industry peers at our official launch event on the 13 July,” said Hirons.

The app has been launched as a part of the Skin Rocks Limited business, which creates skin care kits featuring products hand picked by Hirons.

Dubbed the ‘queen of skin care‘, Hirons has over 37 years of experience in retail, including 25 years working as a consultant in the skin care industry.

She launched a book in 2020 titled Skincare: The ultimate no-nonsense guide, which won the British Book Awards Non-Fiction Lifestyle Book of the Year in 2021.

COSMETICS BUSINESS

Hyaluronic Acid and Retinol Are Skin Care’s Latest Power Duo

Over the past few years, hyaluronic acid and retinol have become such skin-care staples that coming across a product without one or the other is rare. “In skin care, they’re the holy grail,” says Ranella Hirsch, M.D., a dermatologist in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Sure, every few months a new wunderkind skin-care ingredient is discovered in some remote locale, and pretty soon it’s everywhere—in your masks, serums, foot creams, insert-step-in-your-beauty-routine-here. But at the end of the day, there are only a handful of ingredients that have stood the test of time and truly become essential. 

Hyaluronic acid and retinol do deliver results—but what exactly those results are might still be confusing. (Understandably.)

Retinol: For Softening Wrinkles and Fighting Acne

If there’s one ingredient lauded more than any other for its wrinkle-fighting, complexion-perfecting abilities, it’s this derivative of vitamin A. “Here’s the deal with retinol,” explains Hirsch. “We were talking about it in 1975, and we’re still talking about it now because it works.” In study after study, retinol has been shown to build collagen, decrease fine lines, improve skin texture, and fight acne.

When it comes to incorporating a retinol into your skin-care routine, it’s better sooner than later. “Retinol works best as prevention, so don’t wait until wrinkles and dark spots occur to start using it,” says Corey L. Hartman, M.D., the founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. “Another misconception about retinols is that they ‘thin the skin.’ This could not be further from the truth. It actually thickens your skin by increasing production of glycosaminoglycans to keep the skin firm, taut, and smooth.

The prescription version (which goes by retinoic acid, or Retin-A) acts fastest, but it’s pricey—and it can be drying. Over-the-counter retinol, however, take 8 to 10 weeks to show results compared with 6 weeks with an Rx, but is normally paired with anti-inflammatories to calm the redness, peeling, or dryness. It can also cost less than a prescription—which, depending on your insurance coverage, can generally start around $100.

Whichever type you use, you’ll want to ease into your retinol use slowly. “I start patients on the mildest version, one night a week at the onset,” says New York City dermatologist Amy Wechsler, M.D. As your skin begins to tolerate a pea-size amount, you can eventually go up to two nights a week. But stay off harsh physical scrubs and peels while you’re using retinol; remember to moisturize, moisturize, moisturize; and use extra sunscreen for the first six months.

Hyaluronic Acid: For Serious Moisture

Despite its name, hyaluronic acid actually doesn’t exfoliate your skin (if you’re looking for one that does, try glycolic acid instead). This tiny molecule helps lubricate joints and keep skin plump, and is one of the world’s finest humectants, or molecules that attract and retain water. Since these molecules so effectively replenish skin with water, they’re beloved for their hydrating abilities.

In addition to being a terrific hydrator, Wechsler says, HA pairs well with other active skin-care ingredients (so you can layer it with retinol, for example, and use it daily). Not only that, but it also goes above and beyond its duties as a humectant. “Along with hydrating the skin and preventing dehydration, hyaluronic acid provides an environment that keeps wrinkles away,” says Hartman.

Bottom line: “The beauty of hyaluronic acid is that it doesn’t have any fine print,” says Hirsch. “It benefits any skin type, at any age. And the truth is that everyone looks great with hydrated skin.”

What Are the Potential Side Effects?

As with any ingredient, no matter how ah-mazing they are, there are potential side effects that should be kept in mind when using. “When patients start a retinol, the hyper-exfoliation can oftentimes cause redness, peeling, and dryness during the first couple of weeks of use,” says New York City dermatologist Rita Linkner, M.D., founder of RVL Skincare.

If your skin tends to be more on the dry side, it’s worth considering how you can add that extra boost before and after applying your retinol to minimize excessive peeling as much as possible. (Newbies can also try the buffering trick to take down the sting.)

As for our hydrating superhero? “Hyaluronic acid is known to increase the permeability of the skin, making it more sieve-like—which is why it should be combined with a moisturizer to draw more water to itself,” she says.

What Are the Benefits of Combining the Two?

Good news: Retinol and hyaluronic acid actually have a synergistic effect. “They can be combined so that the benefits of retinol can be achieved more easily with concomitant use of hyaluronic acid, which helps to prevent retinol irritation,” says Hartman.

As for what that ultimately means when you look in the mirror: “Overall texture should improve when using the two actives, as well as fine lines,” says Linkner.

How to Get the Best Results

To max out your benefits, “I often recommend that patients use a hydrating serum like hyaluronic acid before they apply their retinol cream,” says Hartman. “Hyaluronic acid plays well with most ingredients, while caution must be taken when using retinol in combination with alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, and some types of vitamin C.”

Linkner echoes the tip about avoiding vitamin C.  “I also wouldn’t advise using a vitamin C after hyaluronic acid, as it can increase the irritation effects of the ascorbic acid.” (Ascorbic acid, the chemical name for vitamin C, is still an acid, after all.)

If you’re new to this combo, it’s worth doing a patch test to see how your skin reacts to the amped-up duo. Because hyaluronic acid can increase the potency of the secondary product, Linkner says, it could potentially draw out the acclimation period when you first start using a retinol.

That said, retinol and hyaluronic acid are a match made in heaven. And if you’re looking to level-up your skin-care routine with even more effective products, here are some fan favourites.

La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Pure Retinol Serum

Thanks to vitamin B3, which can help soothe inflammation, and the gradual-release formula, this retinol serum is gentle enough even for sensitive skin types. (As with most retinols, though, you’ll still want to do a patch test and start by applying at night.) During the day, don’t forget to layer on SPF to get the most anti-wrinkle benefits.

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

Hyaluronic acid is a sugar that your body makes inherently. It provides a plumping effect in the skin by drawing water to itself like a sponge,” says Linkner. This O.G. hyaluronic acid serum from The Ordinary delivers maximum hydration (thanks to the added B5) and comes in under $10.

Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Moisturizer

While you’ll want to be cautious about mixing hyaluronic acid with peptides, the payoff is pretty incredible if the combination is suitable for your skin. “Think of peptides as Legos—they’re protein building blocks,” says Hirsch of the skin strengtheners. Studies show certain peptides can boost collagen production and speed wound healing; or they can mimic the effect of Botox when applied topically. That means you’ll likely want to introduce peptides in your 30s, when you notice your skin doesn’t feel quite as firm or bouncy as it did in your 20s.

GLAMOUR

These 10 Hydrating Serums Will Make Dry Skin Vanish

Hydrating serums are useful because they bring hydration into the skin,” stresses New York City dermatologist Rachel Nazarian, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group. Because healing dry skin calls for both humectants and emollients (that draw in moisture and lock in moisture respectively), a good humectant like hyaluronic acid, which holds 1,000 times its weight in water, will draw hydration to the skin to bouncier, glowier effect.

When the atmosphere is more arid, such as in wintertime, the dry air draws moisture out of our skin… so these barrier products prevent loss of moisture,” explains Nazarian. “Over time, as we age, our skin is less capable of drawing in and locking in moisture—so these skin habits are useful in the short-term seasonally and long-term because as we age, our skin weakens.” Below, some of the best serums for dry skin to help you lock in moisture all season long.

Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum

Drunk Elephant’s B-Hydra Intensive Hydration serum is an ultra-nourishing cocktail comprised of vitamin B5 and fruit ceramides to brighten and heal moisture-depleted skin.

Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Ampoules

To instantly jolt a weary complexion back to life, Dr. Barbara Sturm’s highly-concentrated, single dose ampoules team long- and short-chain hyaluronic molecules with her signature anti-inflammatory ingredient purslane.

SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel

SkinCeuticals’s sinks-right-in gel serum is a favorite for all skin types with its juicy concentration of hyaluronic acid and a heavy dose of hydrating b5 gel, which plumps the skin for a smoother, dewier complexion.

Kate Somerville Quench Hydrating Face Serum

To target signs of aging, Kate Somerville’s Quench Hydrating serum is laced with regenerating retinol, firming wheat germ, and skin barrier function-bolstering lipids for a plumper, more luminous skin.

Tatcha The Dewy Serum Resurfacing and Plumping Treatment

The Japanese beauty-inspired brand’s buzzed-about elixir is a milky serum that lifts impurities with lactic acid and quenches skin’s thirst with hyaluronic acid and sugarcane-derived squalane.

TruSkin Hyaluronic Acid

This hyaluronic acid formula has raked in thousands of Amazon review raves not only for its wallet-friendly price tag, but the radiant results it produces with help from antioxidant-rich vitamin c, protective vitamin e, and soothing aloe vera.

Moon Juice Plump Jelly

Moon Juice’s lightweight jelly hydrator teams hyaluronic acid with unique natural ingredients such as free radical-fighting reishi and healing tremella mushroom.

Chanel Hydra Beauty Intense Smoothing Eye Gel

Given that dark circles become that much more notorious during the winter months—a 2011 study found that 82 percent of women believe they have dark circles in the winter versus 38 percent in summer—you can brighten and de-puff the under-eye area with a serum like Chanel’s smoothing Hydra Beauty Intense eye gel, which sinks right in thanks to its patented micro-droplet technology.

La Mer The Hydrating Infused Emulsion

An instant, fast-absorbing dose of hydration, La Mer’s lightweight serum-lotion is spiked with its famed sea kelp-based Miracle Broth to heal and replenish, while fatty acid-packed soy and antioxidant-rich lime tea concentrate work their magic.

innisfree Green Tea Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Innisfree’s best-selling hydrating serum got a fresh update. The newly minted formulation includes different types of hyaluronic acid and a special green tea probiotic complex that hydrates and helps support the skin microbiome.

VOGUE

Zoë Kravitz’s 9-Step Beauty Routine For A Lit-From-Within Glow

I have always been super into skincare,” Zoë Kravitz says on a recent summer afternoon. Today, the High Fidelity actress is finally revealing the secrets behind her signature lit-from-within complexion, from what she puts on her skin to what she puts into her body. Beginning with a pumpkin lactic cleanser – “it smells like Christmas!” she quips – Kravitz’s routine includes just a handful of carefully selected skincare saviours, including a light serum from Retrouvé, the French pharmacy favourite Caudalie mist, and Isun’s SPF 27 Sun Butter – many of which she has shared with her mother, Lisa Bonet. “My mom and I are constantly sending each other things that we like,” says the 32-year-old, who notes that she also embarks on a 30-day Dr Schulze detoxifying cleanse with Bonet every year. “I really think wellness starts with diet, exercise, [and] hydration,” she says. “I think it’s all about balance, right? I think it’s about joy and happiness and laughter. I really think that affects how you look and feel. Then, you don’t have to use make-up to cover yourself up; you can use it to highlight.” 

With her face adequately moisturised, Kravitz goes on to reach for only nine make-up products, all of which leave an almost entirely imperceptible finish. “It’s fun that no one can tell you’re wearing something on your eyes or on your face,” she muses, after perfecting her complexion not with foundation but rather with light strokes of Yves Saint Laurent’s Touche Éclat concealer. “It’s like a little trick!” Here are her own above-the-neck sleights of hand: First, she dots a thin-tipped black pencil on just the outer corner of her lids, blending the mark outward and upward with her pinky finger for an opening effect. She then pats a bronze Nudestix pigment onto her cheeks and lids for a touch of believable colour. Finally, with a pink-toned Marc Jacobs crayon in hand, she softly lines her lips, paying extra attention to the centre of her mouth for peak poutiness. “There are different kinds of make-up, and everyone finds their own style, but I do like to try to encourage people to enhance the things that you love and not try to change your face completely,” she explains of her go-to approach. After all, as she puts it, “Everyone is so pretty in their own way.” 

Below, shop Zoë Kravitz’s beauty secrets. 

VOGUE

The Best Eye Creams To Look Like You’ve Had A Full Night’s Sleep

If the eyes are the windows to the soul, right now my soul is looking tired, lined, puffy, and a little distressed. Along with genetics, it seems like everything can affect that sensitive under-eye area in some way. Too little sleep, stress, wine (oops), or excess time spent in front of a screen can all contribute to your under-eyes looking a bit worse for wear. Selfie-worthy eye treatments can help when you’re feeling like a lost cause, but what about eye creams? To answer our burning questions–like, “Do they even work?”–ELLE turned to dermatologist Dr. Karan Lal, for insight.

WHY IS EYE CREAM SO POPULAR?

Eye creams have become popular in the past two years because our eyes are the only things people see due to masking,” says Dr. Lal. “I have had a five-fold increase in people asking for eyelid rejuvenation treatments and eye creams.

DO EYE CREAMS WORK?

I believe eye cream is necessary in a skincare routine because the eye sockets and eye skin change dramatically as we age,” says Dr. Lal. “The issue with eye creams is people think they work quickly when in reality the creams should be used for at least 12 weeks before making any judgment about their effectiveness. I make patients take selfies at baseline and after 12 weeks of daily use to compare.” If after 12 weeks you’re still not seeing a huge improvement, you might prefer to opt for an in-office treatment. “Eye rejuvenation includes procedures such as platelet-rich plasma to improve crepey skin, tear trough filler for hollow under-eyes, vascular laser treatment for darkness from blood vessels, or ablative resurfacing for overall skin laxity.”

WHAT INGREDIENTS ARE GOOD TO LOOK FOR IN AN EYE CREAM?

Most people want to get rid of dark circles and crepey skin,” says Dr. Lal. “I love eye products that have arnica in them, which helps with darkness and pigmentation from fragile under-eye blood vessels. I also love products that have peptides that stimulate collagen production. One of my favorite peptides in argireline, because it tightens the skin similar to how Botox works.” 

WHAT INGREDIENTS SHOULD YOU AVOID IN AN EYE CREAM?

I avoid eye creams that have a lot of fragrance because eyelid skin is very thin—one of the thinnest parts of our body—and this can lead to irritation, which can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Lal.

Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream

Sleepless nights might be the cause of your under-eye crinkling. If so, this product taps retinol to combat those lines. Over time, your eye area will start looking brighter, with more even skin tone, and fewer crow’s feet.

CeraVe Eye Repair Cream

Our eyes go through a lot, which is why they need a little bit of extra protection and nourishment. with a combination of moisture building and sealing hyaluronic acid and ceramides, this eye cream forms a barrier that will help minimize the effect of stress and reduce and prevent puffiness.

Naturium Multi-Peptide Eye Cream

With the help of argireline and squalane, Naturium’s treatment visibly tightens the skin around your eyes, while also delivering plenty of hydration and nourishment. You’ll look so refreshed and awake that people will think you actually sleep eight hours every night.

Clarins Total Eye Lift Eye Cream

No need to book that appointment with your friendly plastic surgeon. This eye cream works double-time to eliminate signs of aging like crow’s feet and other fine lines. Plus, it works fast. In just one application, you’ll notice a definitive difference in your eye’s contour.

Strivectin Advanced Retinol Eye Cream

Odds are you’re already aware of using retinol on your face, but this product uses the ingredient to specifically target many of the same skin concerns around your eyes more gently. In addition to reducing fine lines, the cream also plumps and hydrates for a firmer appearance.

Shani Darden Intensive Eye Renewal Cream

Using peptides, ceramides, squalane, and niacinamide, this product works to reduce dark circles. Plus, it also fights against puffiness and imparts crucial hydration to the under-eyes.

Biossance Squalane + Marine Algae Eye Cream

The trick to looking younger, for longer? Intense hydration. This eye cream uses squalane and soothing marine algae to make the under-eyes look smooth and radiant by diminishing dark circles and puffiness. Over time, the treatment can also help fade fine lines.

Ole Henricksen Banana Bright Eye Crème

The skin under our eyes can start looking dull when they’re not properly cared for, emphasizing dark circles and puffiness. This brightening cream uses collagen and vitamin C to help your eyes look younger, brighter, and more contoured.

Clinique All About Eyes Rich

Nothing says “I haven’t slept” more than puffy under-eyes. This cream helps reverse that look to well-rested—even if you spent the night drinking wine instead of sleeping. Plus, it’s also a great primer for under-eye concealer to prevent creasing while covering dark circles.

Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Brightening Eye Cream

As the name suggests, peptides and vitamin C in this eye cream promise to brighten and firm the under-eyes, alleviating dark circles and hyperpigmentation. For people with sensitive skin, the formula is also fragrance-free.

ELF Holy Hydration! Illuminating Eye Cream

If your under-eyes desperately need some soothing hydration, this eye cream brings all that and more. Using hyaluronic acid, peptides, shea butter, and green tea extract, eyes will feel completely rejuvenated like a day at the spa.

Sunday Riley Auto Correct Brightening and Depuffing Eye Cream

You need coffee to look like a functioning adult in the morning, but why leave your eyes out of the fun? This eye cream uses caffeine, shea butter, and natural extracts to brighten and de-puff your sleepy under-eyes.

ELLE

This “Face Altering” French Retinol Blows Other Anti-Aging Creams Out of the Water

When it comes to skincare heavy hitters, retinol is often the first and last thing out of savvy shoppers’ mouths. In a world where marketing lingo runs rampant and the majority of products are hit or miss, it’s reassuring to know that retinol, at least, has reversed signs of aging for decades. From there, the decision comes to which over-the-counter retinol cream is best, and French brand Avène’s found the sweet spot. 

As a successor to the brand’s beloved RetrinAL 0.1 Intensive Cream, Avène one-upped itself with the RetrinAL Advanced Wrinkle Corrector. The former excels as an anti-aging moisturizer that smoothes skin with added vitamin E and peptides, while the latter is a targeted treatment you dab anywhere you’d like skin to look significantly more plump and firm.  

According to dozens of elated reviews, abracadabra, the Corrector grants that wish. Two weeks sees fine lines start to disappear, shoppers’ “deep nasolabial folds” receding in a “face altering” feat. “I saw results right away! I used this on certain parts of my face and put another retinol on the other parts to test its effectiveness, and by far this blew my other retinol out of the water,” a reviewer writes of the Corrector’s effects. 

Shop now: $56; aveneusa.com

Others say the formula’s diminished deep wrinkles around their mouth and forehead so much they’re now looking for other places to put the cream, an accomplishment if we’ve ever heard one. Even 54-year-olds with “deep lines between [their] eyebrows” say a couple nights of the treatment has made an enormous difference — so, to get the science behind exactly how the Corrector puts other treatments to shame, InStyle asked Sheila Farhang, board-certified dermatologist and YouTube creator, for her thoughts on the ingredients. 

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives, and are considered one of the ‘gold standard’ ingredients for anti-aging,” Farhang says. “They increase cell turnover, thereby increasing collagen stimulation to help with fine lines and discoloration. Retinoids also ‘de-plug’ clogged pores, which is why it’s commonly used for acne as well.” Speaking to the Avène formula specifically, she notes that it uses retinaldehyde, which is the most potent over-the-counter retinoid — so if you’ve tried other retinol creams and haven’t seen a big difference, it would be your best next step. 

The stronger the retinoid, the higher the risk for redness, flaking, and irritation, so Farhang says you should always take it slow if it’s your first dance with the ingredient. Thankfully, Avène anticipated the potential sensitivity and added hyaluronic acid and thermal spring water, which she notes calm skin for “a win-win situation.” 

Fellow dermatologist and YouTube creator Dr. Alexis Stephens agrees with Farhang, writing that the addition of algae-derived collactintm also helps skin look younger and more radiant. “The beauty of this formulation is that the powerful retinaldehyde is alongside Avene’s thermal spring water, which is clinically proven to smooth, soften and calm the skin,” Stephens says of the safe-for-sensitive-skin treatment. “I recommend this product so often, I carry it at my private practice for my patients.” 

All of the above makes for a trauma-free experience, even for 49-year-old shoppers with “hyper-sensitive” skin. “Almost EVERYTHING gives me a bad reaction and/or breaks me out. Two and a half weeks in, and [I’m] seeing reduced neck wrinkles and pores shrunk to almost unnoticeable. I’m impressed.” As the French would say, voilà; in American English, whoomp! 

INSTYLE

The Eye Cream Olivia Wilde Says Gets Rid of Her Dark Circles Is Finally Back in Stock

If you suffer from dark circles, you know that finding a brightening eye cream that actually works isn’t always an easy feat. This is especially the case if you’re on the hunt for a formula with natural ingredients. Well, that was before the True Botanicals Resurrection Radiance Eye Cream came on the scene last June. Since then, it has become a go-to for celebrities among the likes of Olivia Wilde and Brooke Shields, who called it “pure magic in a jar” as it “works wonders for my dark circles and I wake up looking so well-rested.” 

With such glowing A-list testimonials, it comes as no surprise that the Resurrection Radiance Eye Cream sold out hours after it launched. Now after months of waiting, it’s finally back in stock — and our dark circles couldn’t be happier. 

Shop now: $78; truebotanicals.com

So, what makes this eye cream so special? It features an innovative combination of illuminating ingredients to restore radiance and moisture back to the sensitive under-eyes. At the center of it all is Resurrection Plant extract, which is used in the brand’s bioactive moisture retention complex to lock in hydration, reduce puffiness, and make tired eyes instantly look more awake. It works in harmony with tree bark extract to create smoother and brighter-looking under-eyes. 

This new product from True Botanicals is bananas,” Wilde said in an Instagram video back in June. “It also has turmeric, and coffee, and licorice extract, and tree bark extract, which is really good for the redness [and] dark circles — which I know quite a lot about.” 

She continues, “People used to call me Wednesday Addams — like ever since I was, like, 8. So, I’ve been waiting for this product for a long time, and it’s amazing. I’ve been editing, I have kids, I don’t sleep. But this stuff is really helping. And I’m going to use a lot more of it.

Both Wilde and Shields pair the eye cream with the True Botanicals Pure Radiance Oil and Chebula Active Serum, which target common signs of aging while supporting the skin barrier with hydrating and nourishing ingredients. “This is my holy grail,” Shields says of the Chebula Active Serum. “It’s a dream for anyone like me who is trying to avoid the excessive use of injections and fillers.”

Shop now: $90; truebotanicals.com

Banish dark circles once and for all with the Resurrection Radiance Eye Cream, which is now available on truebotanicals.com. Hurry, before it sells out again! 

INSTYLE

Buzzy Beauty Ingridient of the Moment: CICA

For those of us blessed with dry, sensitive skin, building out a skin-care routine can, at best, be daunting and, at worst, painful. You can scour the internet for hours upon hours and walk the aisles of Sephora, sampling all the new! and! exciting! products! with! crazy! new! ingredients! that promise all benefits and no irritation, only to end up disappointed. 

Recently though, an old-school ingredient has been making the rounds on skin-care shelves. “Centella asiatica — nicknamed ‘cica’— is an antioxidant-rich herb that has been used for centuries in traditional Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine,” says Dr. Hadley King, a New York City-based dermatologist. “The plant is known for its anti-inflammatory and highly moisturizing properties and has been effective against everything from burns to psoriasis.”

Dr. Sejal Shah, the founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology (who is also based in New York City) is a fan of the ingredient because of its soothing and reparative properties. “‘Cica’ may also be a reference to cicatrization, which means wound healing,” she explains. “While [cica-containing] products aren’t exactly for wound healing, they are meant to soothe, repair and protect the skin.”

According to Dr. Shah, cica’s complexion benefits are the result of a number of “active substances that have wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin barrier repairing properties.” Those substances include asiatic acid, madecassic (brahmic) acid and asiaticoside, brahmoside — all of which can be spotted on ingredient lists if you’re not sure the product you’re looking at is the real deal.

Many other ingredients that are effective in these ways can be irritating, so the fact that cica can provide these benefits without irritation makes it ideal for people with sensitive skin, or for people who are using other ingredients that irritate their skin — like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide or hydroquinone,” adds Dr. King.

Domestic and K-beauty brands alike have been featuring the ingredient in a wide range of products. Neogen makes an entire line of cica-centered products and items from Dr. Jart’s Cicapair range have shown up too many Instagram shelfies to count. Really, cica’s spike in visibility and popularity can be attributed to one thing: It works. “Yes, cica is a trendy ingredient right now, but I think the science shows that the hype is warranted,” says Dr. King. “Studies have shown that the cica extract is an effective wound-healing agent and has also been documented to be effective in the treatment of keloids, phlebitis, cellulitis, slow-healing wounds and stretch marks.”

As with any new skin-care product, you should consult your doctor if you’re concerned about how your skin might react to the ingredient, but Dr. King points out that cica has “no known adverse effects from topical application and contact sensitivity is considered unlikely because it is a weak sensitizer,” which basically means: Don’t eat it, and you’ll probably be fine. 

FASHIONISTA

5 Simple Tips to Help You Decipher Your Skincare Ingredients Label

As a generation of “skintellectuals”, we know our hyaluronic acids from our niacinamides. But ask most of us skincare know-it-alls exactly what our ingredients labels actually mean and we might fall at the first hurdle. Here, Vogue enlists the help of biochemist and cosmetic scientist Nausheen Qureshi to offer you a foolproof guide.

Where is the ingredient label? 

The ingredients or International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients (INCI) list can’t always be found on the product itself. Sometimes it is hidden beneath peel-back stickers and often it can be found on the outer boxing the product came in.

What order do ingredients come in?

Under regulation, all ingredients are listed in descending order, from the most concentrated, until you get to those at percentages below one per cent. At that point, they can be listed in whatever order the skincare brand wants,” says Qureshi. It is tricky for consumers not only to know the strength of each ingredient, but also to know where the one per cent mark lies.

How to understand ingredient names

The substances within the formula are listed by their chemical or biological names. “For example, a rose’s biological name is Rosa damascena, but there are other types of rose, such as the root or leaf, that are defined by different nomenclature,” says Qureshi. The INCI list highlights which part is used. While it can be tough to know exactly what each ingredient is, a quick Google or peruse on the EU’s CosIng database should reveal all.

Common ingredients to know

While formulas and their ingredients vary, there are a few familiar words to acquaint yourself with. Expect to see “aqua” or water as one of the first ingredients on many INCI lists, as well as glycols, which are good “solubilising ingredients that a lot of people are scared of because they sound like harsh chemicals,” says Qureshi. Don’t jump to conclusions when seeing confusing chemical names, as many of these ingredients are kind to skin, include crucial preservatives – which maintain the stability of the formula – and help other ingredients dissolve into the solution for a more effective product.

Learning the symbols

One of the most important symbols on the label is the period after opening (or PAO), a logo of a half-open tub containing a number followed by an M; for example, 24M means 24 months. “It’s an indication of how long you can expect the formula to last after opening it,” says Qureshi. “But don’t forget it could be shorter than that, depending on how long it was on the shelf (where the formula can still degrade) in the first place.” Other symbols include the Cosmos, which means the product has been certified to be genuinely organic or natural, and the recycling symbol, which shows it’s suitable for the recycling bin.

VOGUE

Skin Icing Is The Latest Skincare Secret That Promises The Ultimate Glow

Skin icing – or facial cryotherapy – is one of the latest skincare trends flooding Instagram Reels and TikTok – and for good reason. Quite apart from the mesmerizing effect of watching celebrities and facialists massage ice globes onto their faces, the action of skin icing tightens and contracts the skin, leaving it sculpted and plump with an outdoorsy glow. A case in point is Irina Shayk, whose morning skincare routine comprises an ice tool by Nicole Caroline to wake up her face: “Trust me, it works!” she says in the IGTV for British Vogue.

The idea of applying ice or using a cryotherapy tool in a professional facial treatment isn’t new but the recent innovation of ice-based tools has meant it’s now easier than ever to give yourself an at-home skin icing treatment, without the unglamorous and frankly annoying downsides of melting ice cubes dripping on to your clothes. Whether you want to de-puff skin or get the blood circulating for a post-walk-in-the-cold glow, skin icing is your ticket to see results. Throw in the immediate lifting effect and the added benefit of lymphatic drainage and it becomes an even more exciting prospect. 

Watch any YouTube tutorial and you’ll see before and after shots of icing: skin is glowing, pores are a thing of the past and, most noticeably, the face is lifted. Facialist Teresa Tarmey has been using cryotherapy in her treatments for years because the “ice-lift effect instantly and dramatically lifts saggy and puffy skin, rejuvenating a dull complexion and sculpting the face.” Indeed, icing was proving so popular in her salon that Tarmey created her own cryo-ball so that her clients could continue the treatment at home. “I first intended for it to be used before big events or to save stressed or problematic skin, but it’s so effective, many people use it every morning to de-puff and de-stress skin. The results are seriously impactful,” she says.

The promise of an immediate glow, tightened pores and de-puffing on your skin is reason enough to start skin icing but if you don’t fancy using simple ice cubes, make space in your freezer for one of these cryo tools.

Teresa Tarmey Cryo-Ball

This surgical-grade steel ball contains fluids that stay freezing cold while you roll the ball over the architecture of the face, along the jawline, up the cheekbones and across the forehead for a lifting effect.

Fraîcheur Ice Globes

Satisfyingly chic, freeze these spherical ice globes overnight and use them to give morning skin a massage. From enhancing circulation to taking down redness and puffiness, consider it a worthy AM skin ritual.

Georgia Louise Cryo-Facial Freeze Tools

In lieu of facialist Georgia Louise’s own hands and high-tech in-clinic procedure, look no further than her Cryo Freeze Tools. Louise recommends first rolling from the inner areas of the face, outwards; then, covering the eyes with the tools for 10 seconds to de-puff. 

001 Skincare Cryopress

Counting the likes of Jennifer Aniston and Gigi Hadid as fans, this little tool maintains a temperature of between -8 and -25 degrees Celsius to get the job done – and efficiently. The brand also claim it helps more sensitive skins, like those that suffer with eczema and psoriasis, too. 

Foreo UFO 2

This nifty little tool has a number of settings, from LED light to heat therapy and, of course, a cryo function which helps to shrink pores, reduce puffiness and take down inflammation. It’s not the coldest, at five degrees Celsius, but it does the job well. 

Anne Semonin Express Radiance Ice Cubes

Specifically designed for the eye area, these skincare-infused ice cubes can fit in even the tiniest of freezers and make brightening tired eyes a total breeze.

VOGUE